Long Travel BS Thread

Anyone here ever replaced the pinion bearing?

 

Yes, but it's not something you want to do as a first timer. I'm not just saying that because I'm trying to sell you stuff, it's a bitch. Have a look at this, and see if it's something you feel comfortable with.

http://www.gearinstalls.com/anthonydetroit.htm

 

Me and dtf think thats whats been wrong with mine. Having mine finaly regeared on tuesday. Is ur pinion seal leaking and do u have a grinding especialy on deceleration thats when mines the worst and i can feel it in the floor. Droop out ur rear end till the wheels are off the ground and give it some gas, and have someone watch the driveline at the 3rd member mine has a shit ton of play u can see and even move it by hand when the weights off it.

 

it has like a grinding/ howling sound, its not leaking out of the pinion but leaking pretty bad at the diff....hear it most around 50mph...accell and decell mainly

 

What' does a 9.5" come out of? Do you mean a big bearing 9"?

 

9.5 is toyota landcruiser.

 

I just did all my own regearing..was a pita. Was my first time tearing a diff apart. Not for the faint of heart or those without the tools

 

Taco 8" on the left, Landcruiser 9.5" on the right.



You don't lose any ground clearance with a fabricated Diamond 9.5 housing

The pinion length is the same so the stock driveline will fit

it has an E-brake, and disk brakes a proportionate size

it's full floater

All parts (except for the axle shafts) can be ordered online or at a toyota dealership

It's almost as strong as a Dana 60 which has a 9.75" ring gear, with half the weight and certainly stronger than a 9" at about the same weight.

Good locker selection. I chose a Detroit for reliability. I love my ARB up front but it's easier to protect the air line on IFS than a live axle.

 

Mine did something similar and I was thinking pinion bearing so I pulled the diff and found a chipped tooth (that may not have even been the cause of the noise since the chip wasn't on the contact pattern) which was enough for me to get new gears, granted I was on stock gears then and got some 4.88's.

 

How do the brakes work with swapping from drums to disc? Is it plug and play or do you have to change pumps, lines, etc?

 

How do you (personally) order the TC uniballs from SDHQ? Call them? I can't find any on their website and mine are pitting like a mofo.

 

Just call them or pm that one dude that works there that posts in this thread. Can't remember his username.

Starting the rear tear down

 

I don't know for sure yet, but diamond axle claims his disk setup works. We'll see.

 

My diff blew up two weeks after I had that sound. I had a chipped tooth also.

 

Sounds like a great alternative. Especially if the disc brakes are hassle free. What is the cost of this Diamond Axle setup?

 

$4722 complete with 4.88's and a Detroit. Seems like a lot until you price out a comparable 9" full floater. I had "good" luck with the 8" E-locker. It soaked up a lot of abuse, but in the end they eat parts if you do the stuff we do. I had over $2500 just in replacement parts for this rear end, doesn't take long to pay for something stronger. The diamonds are popular with the rock crawler crowd, and I don't think I've seen one on an LT rig, but you don't read a lot of problems with them so we'll see how long it takes me to break it.

 

What spine axles?

 

I'm not sure, stock is 30 spline. I'll have to ask because I know you can get them built 35 spline as well.

http://www.diamondaxle.com/rear_nonsteering.htm

 

Very cool, I have a FJ80 that's a great axle

 

That's what I've read. Have you heard of any issues with the detroit locker in them? I know it's considerably larger than the 9" lockers. I was apprehensive about ordering one as I couldn't find anything on mud or google about any failures. That kind of scares me in this day and age, someone has to have broken one. I'm hoping the U-joints in the driveshaft will be the fuse, but who knows till you start mashing some skinny pedal...