Long Travel BS Thread

So I just finished my bed cage, I need to add a couple of zip tie tabs, revalve the bypasses, paint the bed cage, and install the bypasses and bumps.

My question is what are you guys doing for the pinch style bump cans in regards to rust prevention, my bumps fit in there tightly so I have to spread the cans to install the bumps. So by painting it, it would make the fit even tighter and probably just scrape off the paint. Any suggestions?

I'm in dry Texas but between whenever it rains five times a year and washing it 2-3 times a month I know moisture will make its way in there from past experience with my other truck.

 

What temp were the shocks at? do you have a heat gun you could shoot them with?

WD-40 is really all you can do.

 

If you can touch them, they aren't too hot haha

 

Yeah I figured that much. Haha I don't have a heat gun so no idea on what the temps were.

 

Do you have a locker?

 

Nice

 

mcmaster carr sells heat stickers. Two types, one time use that register max temp and reusable ones. Heat guns don't work for shit on the plating they put on shocks, at least the shocks I have. Maybe the darker spots on your ORI's would work, I dunno. In my experience, running a shock valved light with heavy oil will run hotter than one valved stiff with light oil. After a hard run I've seen shocks hit 400F, and that was just in Barstow farting around (jeepspeed). A lot depends on how balanced your setup is. My 3.0's in the rear rarely get 200F, but there is a LOT of oil in them and they don't do much work compared to the dual 2.5's up front, which get 300F after a hard run. Most guys use the coilover as a coil carrier, with very little valving. I found that the bypass would get smokin' hot set up this way. Better to split the difference imo. I also should have gone with a 3.0 up front to match the rear, but it is what it is.

 

shocks run around 160-260 280 being max.

get yourself a temp gun and shoot the shocks next time you go out. they are pretty cheap at HF

oil can help with hi temps as well.

 

I am not a fan of the stickers? but what ever you can get to work for you.

I agree completely, you must have a balance in your set up. if you rely on one shock to do all the work, you are going to cook your shocks. you must have the correct valving and oil for your application/driving style.

 

I'm guessing mine weren't at 200+ since I could touch them. Definitely on the verge of not being able to touch them though. Interestingly the ORI's were barely even warm. About the same temp the heat off the motor will warm them up to after it's been running a while. Not sure if it's because they get more airflow than the rears, that they are not damping as much as the rears, that I'm only using about 5" of the 8" stroke while the rear is using 17" of the 18" or that they are just a whole different design.

Overall looks like I still have a ways to go before I have to worry about overheating my shocks.

 

Agreed. I don't know what the upper temp limit of fox blue oil is, but I've turned it brown and it smelled like burnt clutch around 300F.

 

I cant speak on the ORI's? I have never seen the insides. but after looking at your pics you posted, I would do something about valving them. they smash through the travel?

BLUE OIL you are not running that still are you?

 

For now, yes. I am running king oil in the kings, but only because it was a freebie lol. I need to find some really light oil, like 2.5W for the winter.

 

Not a Tacoma, But still fun to look at!

Some more headway on the silver 14' Tundra with Camburg LT and SUA







Torque Converter and Valve body upgrades, getting ready to stab the trans back in

 

Oh yeah. They have a compression valve in them that has 5 holes in it and you thread tap a hole and add a set screw to increase damping or drill a hole to decrease. I already plugged one hole and it helped but yes I need to do another one after my trip to St Anthony last weekend. My ORI's did pretty good through the whoops but they got hammered on the hard landings. They were designed for light weight solid axle buggies not fat ass IFS rigs so I still have some fine tuning to do for sure.

 

Any such upgrades available for a 3.4 Taco? I'm SC'd and I'd love to have as much as Overkill as possible

 

transgo shift kit. valve body mods. better oil flow to improve cooling and firm shifting

 

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we have a nice synthetic 3w. it is designed to reduce temps as well. PM me when you are ready to change the oil. it is the business.

 

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