Long Travel BS Thread

After my last trip in the dirt the stock fender flares were pretty much finished. Added glassworks fenders and rattle canned them and I have to say I'm pretty happy with the results. Didn't want to spend the extra $$ that could be better suited for the front kit.

 

NOT BAD!

right on brent.

 

I don't know how you guys have so many issues with gears. I have several 1st gen tundras running 4.88s and never had an issue. All have been Motive brand. 2 of them are running 35s with over 70k miles on them. I'm running 5.29s in my race truck with the same diff and never lost a set of gears. I have about 10 customers running the TRD LSD with Motive gears and no issues. And I have some customers that beat the hell out of their trucks.

 

I'm kinda in the same boat. Thinking about selling my Taco and building up my 2010 FJ. Just not sure how well the FJ will do as a replacement to a full LT truck.

 

Yes they are the same. They were previously called the H70 now they are relabeled as E30. And not but i would bet they would be close to the 50T . I just got a used pair lovin them.

 

where'd you get the paint? looks good. did you also use clear?

 

Something we are working on

 

Just used krylon black 4 coats and 2 coats of clear ( rear needs a few more cans to finish ) and wet sanded with 1000 and than hit it with compound. They look really good for spray paint but it's definitely not a pro job but than again I won't be bummed when I pin stripe it next time out.

 

i need to get on mine and remove the unmatched plastiderp lol

 

i must say tim @ dmz is pretty awesome. Best customer service ive experienced got the motor mount purches from him and he told me exactly how to put them on and went out of his way to make sure everything went good. called him during install and he told me exactly how to fix the issue with my tweaked frame, answers the everytime i called and even remember me from when i bought parts from him 6 + months ago

if anyone is considering the dmz purches DO IT !!

 

should a caged ruck have solid body mounts? or just tie the cage to the body more? theres some cracks on the body and id like to prevent it from becoming worse

 

LOL, I rocked the zebra look for months before I decided to start sanding and painting. I started with dupli color black sand pearl match but ended up just using krylon and top coating with dupli color. I'm probably going to need bigger fenders when I get my front kit anyway so this was kind of a test run. Just couldn't imagine the larger glassworks fronts with my MT kit. It looks bad enough as is! Might have to break down and run wheel spacers up front.

 

Thanks for the help. That is what I was looking for.

 

Yes it should be on solid body mounts in my opinion and from Ive seen at other shops. And tied into the cage aswell. Caging without solid body mounts will probably lead to cracking eventually. It also causes annoying squeaks in the cab.

 

ive heard it doesnt matter because tieing the cage to the body "solid mounts" it. usually see it tied to a & b pillar, door sills and back of cab.
I know (username) whitetoblack got some poly body mounts, might ask him how those are

 

Exactly, as long as you floor is plated to the down tubes going though the floor, that would replace your solid mounts

 

the down tubes are welded to the floor...heres the cracks

under the door (both sides)







should i repair these or is it not really a big deal? theres also tie ins on the a pillar and the b pillar...nothing up against the rear window though

 

Finally got around to installing my birddawg industries mount.

 

Let us know how it holds up.