Long Travel BS Thread

^^ Huge thanks to Chris at BBM helped me out big time by pressing out the uniballs for me and turning me a couple misalignments. Super knowledgeable and highly recommended. Thanks again Chris

 

well the reason for mine is that i have a fuel cell going to go to 35s with 2 spares back there and tubework also an extra cab. an d i plan on having some storage boxs added as well, and still have the bed for the most part and the f67s tend to sag out quick with weight.

also up front i have an ESB kit thats at powdercoat that is 5.5 over and im going to run tens so it will sit a bit high and i want to be pretty level. i eventually will sell my f67s once i get the E30 pack

 

H70/e30 are a month out as a special order. We recently ordered a set.

Esb kit, fabricated spindle and H70/E30
http://youtu.be/0Co7oxdGGnY

 

What's a reasonable priced Lt kit with no frame modifications/shock relocation

 

Front and rear?

Cant do rear without frame mods and shock relocation.

Front is about 4-5k

 

TC kit is $2845 on my site. Lowest price I've seen it at. Expect coilovers to run you between 1200 to 1500. Sorry about the mobile site. I'm on my phone.

http://www.rebeloffroad.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=59910

Rear is a whole other story. And if you're going to do the rear, I suggest doing it first. personal experiences with mid rear and LT front were not good.

 

Here is a new TC 3.5" LT kit with axles for $3153. I hope somebody with a 2nd Gen jumps on it.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/de...-3-5-long-travel-kit-w-axles.html#post9028448

 

Need some info on some cage tube. I'm thinking of running .120 wall DOM 1.5" tube. But my bumpers are going to be 1.75". Should I stick to 1.75 for everything? Or can I get away with 1.5" for the cage. Thoughts?

 

Been eye balling it, was gonna pick up the +2 kit from the Co guy since it came with shocks but it sold before I could get the funds together.

Thought all cages were 1.75? I could be wrong

 

Well then that solves that. Thanks

 

That's called a MT kit.

 

Thanks already talking to "the traveler" about a kit

 

Your tubing diameter is all based on the weight of your truck. A light weight early gen Tacoma is probably fine with a 1.5" or 1.75" cage. A fat heavy 2nd Gen is going to need to have at least a 1.75" cage or even 2" cage. My old truck was 6000lbs full of fuel and tools.

However, having a 1.5" or 1.75" well built cage is still ten times better than not having one at all.

Most of my logic about cages comes from racing regulations according to your trucks weight. At 4000 lbs you have to have a certain cage configuration and they break it all down Barney style. At 6000lbs they have their own specifications etc.

 

^ Good info, I guess I should have re-worded that to ''all the cages I've seen were 1.75"

 

Well I'm a 1st gen double cab. So I'll stick with 1.75 thanks.

 

My entire truck is 1.75 .120 wall. Using the term "overkill" for any piece of safety equipment is silly but we didn't do 2" to try and save some weight and probably shaved 300 lbs if my math is correct? Not 100% sure on the specific number but I'm 100% confident that even with as heavy as my truck is 1.75 will hold up just fine in a roll, not that I ever plan on testing it (knock on wood)

 

1.75 tubing is the normal standard for cage tubing for regular size trucks now.
Like many guys said on here, if you have a 2nd gen 4-door I would go with 2 inch. But it is based off of weight of truck etc.... In the early 2000's many race trucks had only 1.5 .120 wall mild steel tubing and it was race legal and fine. (as long as it passed Tech, was structured right with proper gussets) Some guys grandfathered in still race with 1.5 tubing. But now a days I'd go with at least 1.75 even on a small size truck

 

Fiberglass fender question. Trying to take off my passenger fender but can't get the antenna mount dismounted.

 

Special wrench to disconnect it.

 

I'm at this point