Long Travel BS Thread

Nope they still haven't finished a set yet.

 

Haha coil* phones like to autocorrect.

 

Just heard back from them, this was their response

"Sorry about that. I will send you an invoice today. We have been really busy in the shop. We have started making coil bucket/ upper arm gussets just have finalized a design yet."

 

That invoice he's talking about is for LCA gussets

 

Built Right Fab (San Diego Truck Shop) makes them also, I run them.

Built Right has that ability off their kit, and it has a lifetime warranty on non-wearable parts.

The Built Right and Camburg kits can run Coilover/Bypass/Hydro/CV. Just need the right rod ends for the coilover. I'm sure there are others, but those are fresh on my mind.

They make all the gussets in shop, and have all in stock to ship.

 

Just order the TC ones from SDHQ, best price I found. Even shipped them out today, will get them Friday.

 

I'm sure you guys mean on a bypass, that you can valve the piston to act like a bump after it has passed the last bypass tube.

I would run an engine cross brace off the coil tower/secondary hoop if you are going to do this and beat on the truck, that and plate and gusset where the secondary hoop welds to the frame.

I would still want some sort of final bump. Preferably on the frame rail off the lower arm.

 

On SAW you can run a 2.5 air bump piston in a bypass. Tiny flow ports.
Fox has "short course" pistons that have smaller flow ports too.
Other brands idk.

Would prob need to add a little free bleed to get the piston in and out of the shock depending on your shim stack. At least using a SAW air bump piston. Ask me how I know, ha.

 

You can also use a 90* pick and get just the tip under the main shim and it will let the fluid flow by

 

I thought so..but idk anything about that Shit hardly so..whatever.

 

I thought you can't run coil, bypass, hydro, and cv on second gen Tacomas due to the bump strike pad location. On my truck it starts from where the factory bump is located all the way to under the cv. My guess is on 4x4 you bump in the factory location and on 2x4 where the cv is normally located when running hydro. Then for the bypass route you get rid of the factory bump regardless of drivetrain and on 4x4 use the third tube as a bump. This is what I assumed though. Correct me if I am wrong because I bought hydro bumps and just have them collecting dust since I would much rather run bypasses if it is one or the other.

 

You could bump off the UCA, but the spindle would need significant gusseting. I just use the bypass as a bump. I'm not saying I can't bottom it out, but I haven't figured out how yet.

 

Me too. Only fast driving I do is in the Amberlamps and to say it's even close to LTed would be a horrific lie. This is probably a more accurate description:

 

Right now yours would be nice soft on the street. And soft in the high speed hits. Long tube for Low-Mid speed compression. Short tube for High speed..Bump zone. Id start small and go two turns and go from there. Or even less.

 

That's good to know that Built Right can do that. My buddy may be building his 2nd Gen 4x4 with all Built Right parts. Total Chaos is an absolute no go per their warranty.

Camburg's website says that you can't run Coilover, bypass, and hydro bumps on their 4x4 Kit. Pre-runners are GTG but not 4x4. Maybe it could be done from a practical standpoint but they say not to do it.

http://camburg.com/all-products/05-12-taco/toyota-tacoma-lt-kit/

 

There are different layout styles of bypass tubes so short-tube, long-tube can be confusing.

Gelo on your fox triple bypasses (and SAW triples) there are 2 compression tubes that run parallel and then one ends and the other continues a couple more inches.

On your shocks the long tube is actually the last stage of bypass before it all has to flow through the piston, but only after the piston has passed the end of the overlapping short tube. Unless you close the long tube all the way and only use the short tube.
In the middle of the shock stroke you can bypass oil flow in both the tubes, then as one ends you are only bypassing in the other one.

I like this style tube layout, especially on leaf springs as you can bypass a lot in the middle of the stroke.

King/Radflo/ADS generally have a tube that starts and ends then another tube starts right where that one ends so you are only tuning one tube per stage.
In this style the long tube is usually in the middle of the stroke, it will end and a short tube will start where it ends. The short tube here is the last bypass stage before all the oil has to go through the piston.

Shocks can be ordered with tubes however you want but in this case I'm talking about off the shelf shocks.

Hope that makes sense.
I would post pics but meh.

 

Get a video going through normal driving terrain at your comfortable speed. Send it to SDHQ, you bought the shocks form them so they should give you some support on the tuning. I'm sure they will get you very close to where you need to be. Just fine tuning from there.