Long Travel BS Thread

I am wanting something to take stress off the rack. Figured they would just like a rack slider.

 

So, I'm undecided on what I want to do with my coil overs. They have about 100,000 miles on them, and were recharged about 30,000 miles into that. Yea, I know - way overdue for a rebuild. Pretty sure they are blown. Truck "darts" on the road when it hits a big crack and the body sway is pretty bad. Surface rust from five years in the midwest has taken its toll.

I want to go to the Fox click adjust remote reservoir. Should I buy parts and rebuild (I'll have to buy any special tools needed as well, plus the local offroad shop charges $50 to charge shocks) or just buy new coil overs?

How big of a pain in the ass is it to rebuild coil overs?

 

Same as rebuilding any other shock other than the fact that you need to remove the coil

 

Removing the coil is not an issue, although I wonder how much life those coils have left in them. My issue is the internals; I have no experience with rebuilding shocks although I am pretty mechanical. I'm stationed in Missouri - I'm the only long travel truck for a hundred miles in any direction. The local offroad shop's idea of a "suspension system" is a block lift and half dozen Rancho shocks... Hell, in Missouri if your block lifts are actual metal, and not pieces of 2x4's, you're high speed...

So basically I'd be in this on my own.

 

Plenty of videos and walk throughs online to help boost your courage

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POunLnsInQk

 

Understood and correct me if I am wrong...when a steering rack and its dampening are designed for a 265 and you add the size and the weight of a 35 the feedback in your hands is going to be far more than what that OE rack is designed for. When you add a stabilizer with stronger dampening than the OE rack it simply gets you back to a similar amount of feedback as OE. IE: if you are crawling over a bunch of loose football sized rock and you tires are constantly sharply deflecting off of those surfaces or IE: you are on an extremely rutted dirt road and your tires are sharply deflecting in and out of odd angled ruts nothing you do to your suspension or alignment is going to combat the steering wheel feedback of a 35" tire hitting that stuff ? Unless you could rake the front end out like a chopper...that would slow down the steering and feedback at higher speeds but you are still going to have the heavy tire issues at slow speeds right ?

 

It's much easier to do than you think. I did them by myself just from watching videos. Minimal tools are required. I think the 2nd shock only took me like 25 minutes to do.

 

Could someone with the DMZ rear kit please take a photo from the back of the truck that shows the DMZ rear hangar and shackle. I need to see how the hangar sits in relation to the frame rail please, thanks !

 

Thanks Chris, so with that hangar and shackle sitting completely outboard of the frame rail the new spring perches you put on the rear axle must sit a little wider on the axle than the OE perches too right ?

 

The spring hangar goes the exact same place as the stock one from what I remember.

 

Dropped in the new differentials today. Now on 4.88s with ARB air lockers front and rear.

 

Finally got some of the cage welded up.

 

James went out and used his truck again this weekend. 37s really do good on the truck

 

Sick!

 

https://instagram.com/p/3FxxiJKS-P/

Never linked an Instagram vid before let's see if this works. Hitting some whoops after doing some changes to the rear.

 

It worked. Looks like you need more motor!

 

There is plenty of motor still left I was just partial throttle. I'm keeping it under 60 until I get a cage.

 

Good call.