Long Travel BS Thread

Heres my stack of recipts...doesnt even include all the parts DTF has had to order, any labor charges or maitnance parts...i dont add it up haha

 

Lolz!

 

I talked to Tim@dmz and he said he can get glassworks in 7 days typically, talk to him. Might be putting in an order tomorrow. I talked to roadrunner to and they said 5 days but I dont have any experience wth them

 

Also considering selling my truck due to a possible permanent move, so if you guys know anyone interested in a double cab with total chaos front kit and dmz rear, send them my way. Buyer can pick what glass they want me to order lol

 

or keep the truck and trade for stock parts + cash...

 

haha in way too deep for that with how many parts are welded on and all the stuff done to it, not to mention the time that would take. I think it would kill me inside to drive my same truck minus all the fun stuff lol

 

lol ya that would suck now that i think about it.. if my truck was all done up i wouldnt want to drive it after itd been raped of its good parts lol

 

Thanks, I will

 

Yeah once you do a dmz kit in the rear there is pretty much no going back. Buying an already lt truck is the way to go.

 

Ain't that the truth.

 

Guys, is this where I weld on my limit strap?

I feel like I should just weld the tab closest to the top of the frame as I can because it's adjustable... Anyone got input?

 

Weld it anywhere you like as long as the strap is going in a straight line when tensioned, and leave enough adjustment to comp for some slight stretch 'n youll be solid..

 

Meh I guess I'll do it the correct way and put the whole suspension together. Just didn't want the stupid coilover and spindle and all that stuff in the way when I weld and paint

 

Might as well cut those factory bumps out while your there, with those in you'll have stock up travel. Just gaining down travel is pointless IMO

 

Uh what? I thought the kit is designed for factory bump, you sure I'll safely have enough uptravel in my shocks?

 

Yeah you have to actually use a spacer on the factory bumps to LIMIT up travel to prevent the shocks from bottoming out

 

Take the spring off and see if you want, but they were designed around close to factory bump I bet

 

I assumed the opposite but I never cycled mine with the factory bumps to see for sure

 

Their stock length lowers also use that spacer. Does it have something to do with the design of the bump pad more than the shock?