Long Travel BS Thread

You're literally two days too late, we took 285/70/17s off our other truck and I offered up the old ones for spares on this thread.

I'll have 2 285/75/16s I could hold onto as spares if anyone needs them but they pretty worn. Better than no spare though

 

Yes, the way the outer tie rod bends it will hit the bypass mounts when you turn full lock. When you swap them it bends outwards and gives just enough clearance. Camburg flips them too

 

Dang - I get so behind on this thread since I don't check it very often.

 

Sorry! If you want a 285 75 16 ill tell the tire shop to hold onto one or two tires and you could have it for free. Discount tire charged me/sent me two extra 285 70 17 nitto all terrains. I was going to return them but if for some reason they dont return or something like that, ill let you know.

 

From what I read 60-65" is about the longest you can go with a one piece, right?

 

70"

 

But just be aware it is much larger diameter than the OE shaft which creates more fun with clearance issues at the carrier bearing cross member and the other odds n ends I mentioned....ask me how I know

 

Where are you located? Maybe I can ask my local shops for takeoffs?

 

This is my concern with it being too long. But I also question if our little our trucks will put enough strain on a DS to warrant that increase in thickness?

 

They can mess driveshafts upp, especially in 4lo... @Evenflow what did you do to get the brake cables out of the way? Crossmember I plan on making a new one? Out of 1.25" DOM? What leafs you running?

 

I live in Riverside

 

I have a 3 link rear but regardless of leaves or links I think everyone's goal is to bump as close to the frame as possible and a one piece drive shaft is not going to let you do that w/o completely removing that cross member. When they make a one piece they use 4" vs the OE 3" ...it's huge. With a one piece there is no way you could build a new crossmember out of 1.25" the drive shaft would hit it while your axle was still a long way from bumping as high as you would want it too. From my experience I would suggest just sticking with a two piece.

I am still working on the cables, the brake cables seem like they can easily just be clamped out of the way but the shift cable is going to have to be relocated because it comes through the floor too close to the drive shaft.

 

The way the guys at Tom Woods explained it to me is that it is a simple matter of how stable the tubing is a what length and RPM's. So as the shaft gets longer it must be larger to remain steady at higher RPM's. You should call Tom Woods, they are very well known and are great about taking time with you over the phone to ensure that you are getting the right thing. I went with a one piece when I had a taller lift and was sick of dealing with carrier bearing issues and vibes. From what I have run into lately going to a long travel set up I would have been better off keeping the two piece.

 

Can you put a one piece on a 2wd with the slip yoke on the diff end? That's double slip yokin' it. I have the slip yoke on the diff end with a CB. Replaced the CB twice now only because I've failed to lube the slip yoke.

 

I gotcha. I'll give them a shout or might try to get ahold of a shop that specializes in LT and see what they recommend. I'm not going to be LT for a year or two, but I don't want to have to redo my driveshaft twice. Haha.

 

You don't do your driveshaft until you already have your long travel on so you only do it once

 

Well I need a new carrier bearing and if Toyota is gonna charge me $200 for one plus new ujoints, then I might as well do the whole thing right the first time. lmao

 

you won't be doing it right if you have to redo the drive shaft after LT...that's his point.

 

you wont have to re do it...if you do it now youre fine for now....and with lt

 

Sorry, I misunderstood. I was reading through this while studying and guess I was still in calculus mode. lmao