Long Travel BS Thread

I have two spare stock pumps that I know work so maybe I'll swap those in.

I filled my gas tank up maybe 15 miles before this happened.

 

I got a walbro. I hear mine buzz in the tank.

 

YeAh I recently installed a walbro 190 like 1k miles ago

 

Crank it over for a sec leave ign to on and it should buzz for a few seconds until it clicks off. They are pretty loud pumps.

 

I had clicking issues and replaced the terminal connectors and it worked. Just like madtaco said. It's a good place to start.

 

It only clicked a couple times. The. I stopped and started and it cranked just like normal again

 

Remove your gas cap and have someone turn the key if u can't hear the pump then u know

 

Sucks that I've just filled the tank. Probably dropped this damn tank 5 times already

 

Yay shock CAD! Lol

 

Take your battery to get tested too. Could have bad cells that don't hold amps.

 

Anthony I would bet your batteries dead because your alternators not charging it, try jumping it and drive down to vato zone and they can check your alternator...or just pull it and get it tested.

Also you shitheads are contagious with your parts going out on you, now my truck battery died and I had to replace it.

 

Does your bed cage tie into your sliders? It looks like a bolt in bed cage so I'm questioning on whether or not It really attaches to your sliders or not.

 

It does tie into the sliders....tube couplers in there

 

I will test it. Just seems odd.. I have a yelloytop from 2012. I also have a voltmeter in the cab and right before it died it was at 13.9 volts. Had the hazards on for a hour or so and the battery was at 12v...usually in the mornings it's at 11.8-12

 

Volts and amps are two different things. I had the same prob in both my truck and my wife's T4R and mine was a bad yellow top too. It turns out there were a ton of bad Optima batteries for a couple of years. A battery can show over 12 volts but not have enough " cold cranking amps " to turn over the truck. Super easy way to test is to swap out another battery...any battery just to test it.

 

that's what another friend told me... they are for sure tight. there is a little corrosion on the bolt that holds the clamp on the battery terminal, but just on the bolt and not the terminal its self or wire.

I jump started my truck, it ran for a minute or 2 and then just died again. I think the alt is gone and the battery just cant hold a charge for long enough for the injectors to keep pumping to get it anywhere... LOL.
sound like a alternator to you guys? im going to go to my dads to get his volt meter to test it.. just sucks cause the truck broke down like 45 minutes away from me... and my dad is another 20 minutes in the other direction... dam truck. look at me whining over a couple hours... haha!!

 

This.

Like I said. Your battery can show full voltage. But could be holding no charge. And vise versa for that matter. I've had both. Battery with 2.1v that was fully charged and 12.4v with like 10amps.

Get the battery tested. Alternator can't hurt either.

 

Worth it.

 

No, just boosting hard in 4wd. But I remember one of them binding when I did the cup mod. Don't buy the ones that bind is what I'm thinking for the futurw.

 

Mine buzzed from day 1. Lasted 3 months. Yuck...... : )