Long Travel BS Thread

Todd Walter has a really well built 2nd Gen (Adrenaline Motorsports Racing on FB) that is similiar to the TSA truck only leaf sprung...that truck will be racing 7100 starting at Blue Water later this year. Also Kurt Youngs little green Toyota just got a TC kit that he raced on at the Mint.

Bottom line you aren't going to go wrong with either company and I'm willing to bet that performance wise 99.85% of the people who post here (myself included) would not be able to tell the difference between the two kits from behind the wheel.

 

Congrats man! The wait will have been worth it! Trust me! LOL, now I can run by Matt's shop next week to grab the parts he borrowed off our truck to double check a couple last minute issues! LOL

Feel free to hit me up if you have any questions. Are you building it as a play truck or to actually race? Cause I can give you some tips on what I've learned and been doing on ours to keep the rest of the chassis alive depending how hard you're going to run it. The kit itself I've had ZERO issues on. I just now have to replace the front wheel bearings for the first time but I'm more then satisfied with the life we've gotten out of them considering the abuse. I don't really like stating how many miles we get our of our parts cause until you ride in the truck and see how we use it, I don't think most understand what one mile in our truck really equates to abuse wise in comparison. Put it this way, I drive it knowing it can be drug onto the trailer to get us home. LOL

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1M60p5APn4k

 

Its probably just going to be my play truck. Not sure all the rulesand specs on cages and all that

 

You're 100% right. Especially if you're paying someone to do the work for you. But for me the parts are already paid for. It's only my own time needed to try and squeeze as much out of my own kit as possible. Definitely not necessarily really more interested in seeing what's possible. Whether it's guns, tools or cars I like messing with stuff trying to see how much more can gotten out of them.

 

I just say dual rate 10s if you are trying to max out travel out of a burg or chaos kit. We all hate that stock coilover bucket anyways.

 

That really won't help the 4x4 guys. Cv bind limits the droop. You may gain some bump, but you're gonna lose all of your inner fender wells. I think if you're gonna make the jump to 10" dual rates you might as well go solo xlt or trac once it's released. You'll also gain the ability to run more robust hubs

 

That what it seemed like everyone was referring to since you really can't get too crazy on the droop. Adding longer arms is the only way to do that. I can agree with you on the amount of work needed when your uca starts knocking into the fender.

 

http://www.cvjaxles.com/

Maybe these guys could make you something at a decent price to get you closer to the numbers your looking for.

 

All the cv bind in the world is worth it....just to pull out all the stuck prerunners

 

Getting back to the point that travel numbers aren't everything........

 

No problem dude! This is the fun part of my job and I enjoy talking about this stuff. End of the day both companies make great kits and you cant go wrong either way, Hudson has had great things to say about their race kit and I think its a great design. Pat is a great dude as are the guys at Camburg.

Lets see if I can cover most of what you asked.

First thing to keep in mind here is that our numbers are off a Tundra, not a Tacoma and there are difference between the 2 and we have not done the side by side comparison on the Tacoma's. None of our Tundras are running a diff drop. The Icon Tundra shocks are built specific to the LT tundra kits. As I said and is shown the bigger difference in travel numbers is from shock selection. There are minor differences between the two kits which we can only chock up to small engineering difference between the two which accounts for the small discrepancies.

On the Tacoma shocks from Icon that are for a 3.5 LT kit the bodies on the coilovers are shorter which in turn allows for more compression travel which is where we see the difference. My truck is getting a complete tear down and rebuild early august, so when I do I will grab a tape measure and cycle everything for you guys with complete numbers but they will be close to the Camburg/Icon combo. Not with a Kibbe tape measure either. 15 has always been my metal to metal estimate but even at full droop, limit straps off, my CVs do not bind, I'm strapped about an inch short of full droop right now.

Now, that being said there are pros and cons to the additional uptravel I have on my truck. Any one that saw my truck at Rock Therapy will tell you that my inner fenders are pretty much destroyed, this is from years of self clearancing on 35s. I run a very soft and tall Timbren rubber bump up front. My truck will lay skid plate on the ground before I am truly at full bump, which is due in part to my skid plate design which we built a little lower than some to keep everything away from the diff. For situations like Rock Therapy or other slow crawly type stuff with lots of off camber and slow flexy stuff its awesome as the front end articulates side to side, big deep whoops and steep transitions where the front compresses at once not so much and I will sometimes clip the front corner of my lower skid plate. Alot of this can be accounted for in valving and bypass tuning.

The heimed steering on my truck was done for a number of reasons mostly because I was properly set up for it with the double sheered outers on my spindles. Pros and cons again: Its highly unlikely that I will ever bend a .1" .095 Chromoly tie rod, but I'm also far more likely to blow up a steering rack now, which has been an on-going struggle.

Well when was the last time Dan raced? Same with Nicoles truck? (last I remember was BAP almost 3 years ago when they rolled it) Also forgetting the old blue and yellow truck (cant remember the name) but they race VORRA pretty frequently. The Dakar trucks are a valid argument, I'll give you that.

My point was that in an overall picture Camburg is more involved and active in the race circuit than TC. They make a much broader range of race kits for various platforms. The 2nd Gen Camburg kit which we were discussing does seem to have more race miles than the TC variant.

 

Completely true. It all comes down to the leg work you are willing to do at the end of the day in setting it up correctly.

 

Thanks that all makes sense. I figured most of the gains seen were in bump. My goals are to make more of my gain in bump by modifying my inner fenders , as my truck is currently set up fairly low compared to most other trucks, but the only slow stuff I do is done during hunting season and is just rutted trails, not so much Moab type stuff.

 

Shit I have 33's and at fullll bump my tires rub fender well, I got a dent from the uca bolt too lol...35's and my inners are going to rip off

 

No problem, my truck is also set up lower in the front. Obviously the entire inner fender and some of the firewall on my truck will be cut out when we do the engine cage in August to fit the 37s which I hope will help with my laying skid plate issue a little bit. I think its worth noting too that only the front suspension and front bumper were built and setup by SDHQ, the rest of my truck was built by friends of mine. Everything to build and plumb it was obviously picked up through us tho. I'm 100% not a fabricator, just that annoying guy that most people hate to work with in my buddies ear the majority of the time. Bolt on and prep stuff, no problem. Fabrication work I leave to those that know better than I do.

 

Time to lengthen those bumps!

Or just pull the fenders off completely?

 

Right now they self clearanced but if I go to 35's I guess I'll just have to engine cage it....darn it lol

 

How crazy am I to be considering building a flat bed for my LT truck?

Would have raised wheel wells for the shocks and wheels. Would be able to fit my four wheeler. Would stop pelting the truck with rocks and mud (due to adequate fender coverage).

 

Always measured at full droop after a warm shower