Long Travel BS Thread

jelly of the rear set up

 

Let's talk rear sway bars - I could not afford to do it at the same time @jeffz0rz built my links but it's time to get rid of the 72' Caddy with blown struts cornering I have. Anyone have experience with the Currie universal " antirock " kits or any other universal kits ?

$495

http://currieenterprises5.reachlocal.net/universal-antirock-sway-bars

They sell a bracket that you simply bolt to the bottom of your frame, it is intended for a Jeep but looks just like every other brands universal add on bracket :

$85

http://currieenterprises5.reachlocal.net/CE-9900XJBR

Seems pretty straight forward and simple ? Would just need the tabs welded to the top of my axle for the other end of the link. I did some research on the install and the positioning etc...all seems pretty simple, plenty of charts available to figure out the length of the arms and links etc .

Am I missing anything ? Any advice ?

 

You live in San Marcos now ? I'm in San Elijo Hills just over the hill from Cal State

 

The +2 kit is 11.5" of travel and +3.5 is 13" of travel so I don't think its "useless" unless im missing something? Only 1.5" less of travel...

 

I'm in Encinitas right now but moving to San Marcos this Friday. I'm egr across the street from csusm

 

An inch is a mile for travel and ground clearance.

But again, for your uses. +2 will be good

 

I wouldn't count on those full #'s with a 4wd because your droop is limited by the CV's. My CV's bind at droop a couple of inches before the uniballs and CO

 

Hmm...

 

Ruff stuff sells swaybar stuff too

 

They want $550 just for the bar

 

I actually have a buddy who used d44 snouts, machined a sleeve to fit the bearings, made a shackle for leafs out of it and used the splined bits off an old axle welded to sum .25" wall dom for the bar, and it ran thru the snout pivots, worked really well, kinda random but it's swaybar related lol

 

Yea it's expensive, heat treated chromo rod, then splines broached and retreated...isn't that cheap to do yourself...I've tried doing splines at home and it's a bitch kinda

 

You could maybe make your own using some old torsion bars?

 

I'm not bothered by the Currie pricing so I will probably go that route but I was just laying under my truck looking at it and I will be lucky to be able to make it work. A short bed with OE frame, links and CO's, bed cage mounts, pan hard mounts, bump cans etc etc I will be lucky if there is space for it. I'm going to mock it up tomorrow with a 1" dowel and make cardboard arms to mock cycle it and see if the arms will actually clear everything. Looks like the arms will have to pass outside the bump cans so the 50" bar may be my only option. It is 48" outside to outside of my bump cans but the width of the arms will probably mean the 50" bar has a 48" inside edge to inside edge clearance ? ...need to call Currie in the morning to find out for sure...

 

Run it thru the frame maybe?

 

I have zero room to do it that way, between everything g i already described and a boxed, plated frame with a new X memember there is no room to do it that way. My only hope is to use the brackets to mount it on the bottom of the frame.

 

An idea. Run it across the axle and bolt to the frame. Just like how modern trucks do. I gotta draw that up to see if that is even possible with huge travel. I'm just speaking off the top of my head right now.

 

Aren't some of the McNeil trucks running the sway bar on the axle? I know I have seen some LT trucks with 4 link and on axle sway bar just don't recall whom's.

 

Maybe. I don't recall if I've seen it. Definitely be a bit of a pain to set up

 

Generally trucks built for the dirt that have this set up run it above and behind the axle, but you get the idea: