Long Travel BS Thread

I came across some 4.56 diffs, what do you guys think? Should I jump on these or hold out for 4.88s? Currently I am on 33s but I have some 35 Toyo's for it that I've been meaning to mount. 2nd gen 4.0 Auto with the TRD S/C.

 

Do 4.56's. With the supercharger, you aren't gonna ever want 4.88s

 

Until he jumps to 37s

 

If you jump to 37s with your Camburg kit I wanna see pictures how you managed to stuff them up front

 

I'm running 4.56s with the s/c and 33s and love it. I also plan on going to 35s with my next set of tires. I think 4.88s would've been too much

 

lol its for changing drum brakes.. makes it easy to remove those green retaining springs to remove the pads lol... took them off yesterday and couldnt get them back on by myself.. saw the tool in a vid, went to the auto store and they had it.. and the springs went back on in 2 sec..

but i gotta take it all apart again today to try and get the arp studs in

 

Need help, got front end aligned and it shows out of spec but don't know if this is good or not. I have a 3inch lift running 275/70r17 with spc light racing uca. The allignment shop never moved the caster washer, so I don't know if this was on purpose or if he just didn't know about it.
Here is my allignment sheet

 

lots and lots of cutting, and then some more cutting. It will happen, my truck need tires pretty bad so I might as well make the jump.

 

i thought the 35s looked big b4 i got my suspension on.. now i wish i went with 37s

 

Question:

For desert running... is a C rated tire pretty much out of the question?

 

No. Why would it be?

 

Cuz I've heard people talk that less weight rating tires handle high impacts worse. I believe @username went thru lots of tires before the military take offs, correct?

 

Really depends on the weight of the truck and how hard you beat it up.

I'm about 4k lbs and do ok with my c rated. I run pretty high pressure now with all the weight I added over the years. I only air down to about 25. More if in sand. Depends on how how much side wall flex you want to help you track straight.

This is how I feel about my tires and works for my truck. Think tire rating depends on how much side wall flex you want out of your truck.

 

Think wheel to side wall ratio has a lot to do with it as well.

I always go to 10-14psi on my 35x12.5r15 MTRKs. And I've never had issues with my pig of a rig. But MTRs are super flexy to begin with and I have a lot of tire before the wheel.

16/17s I would never run that low even with 35s for high speed stuff.

 

I was thinking about this too for running spacers to clear shocks in the back - so just disassembling the rear brakes is all you need to do in order to remove the old studs and install new ones? What about the front - are you installing longer studs as well? If so any issues with the dust guard or was it an easy install?

 

the arp studs for the rear need to be cut just a tad to be able to fit in even with the brake pads removed.. found a pic from a member on here that did it and it looks like he cut off about 7 threads.. i talked to DTFtony about it and he said hes done it 2 different ways.. cut off about 1/4" or drill a hole through the back and insert them that way then weld up the hole.. i think im just gonna cut the studs a bit.. i im going to be doing the fronts as well once i finish the rear.. heres the pic i found from a member on here that cut the studs

 

Thank you - the cut stud looks like it has just the right amount of thread to be flush with the top of the open ended nut on the spacer.

 

there was another picture i just didnt save it to my computer but the finished pic he actually had a few threads sticking out the lug nut, but not past the wheel spacers

 

Speaking of alignments, I am new to LT, but I am crawling more than flying. What are good alignment numbers for on road? Same as oem spec?

 

that would be my guess. I have TC long travel on my daily and got it aligned with Factory specs Handles great