Long Travel BS Thread

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fully-built-2008-caged-4x4-long-travel-linked-dcsb.397014/

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...el-picture-extravaganza.439830/#post-12771628

When I asked him about them in a pm:

As for the fender skirts, they are made out of .090" abs. I found a company here in salt lake and I bought a 4'x8' sheet for around $50.
I made templates out of poster board. I bought these things called clip nuts? They are literally a clip with a nut coincident with the center of the clip (I'll have to find a pic). So I just used the inner lip of my Glassworks fenders and drilled holes at an equal distance. I also used some factory holes near the engine compartment that the stock liners used. My fenders are line-xed so the inner fiberglass lip is a little stronger over just the gel coated glass.
The abs is your best bet. It is rigid as well as being flexible enough not to need a heat gun to install.

I also went to Napa And bought one truck mud flap for $15 and made mud flaps for the front. This reduced the amount of mud, snow, rocks that are kicked up onto my side windows.

 

Thanks for the replies. So it's looking like a fabbed liner is the way to go. Wasn't sure if there was some type of airbox that would work.

 

I had the same question a few months a go and here's what I made.
1/8" abs plastic sheets, 10"wide by 5' long.
Made a cardboard template of the inner fender wells, followed by lots of trimming to get it where I wanted it.
Traced it into the abs, cut it to shape, the mounted the front and back of the abs with clip nuts and bolts. Then mounted the middle with sheet metal screws.

 

Does anyone know the normal going rate for a low miles 3.4, auto trans and j-shift t-case?

 

if you are doing the 8" pick up a spare 3rd and set them up yourself, its super easy. (with some tools)

 

Front isn't though. and the 8.4'' is not either.

 

um, thats why i said the 8" is
going to pick up a 8.4 to try it on the new truck. see how much of a bitch it is.

 

Huge bitch..trust me.

Mainly because you have to tear it apart, then try and set the new gears. THEN after you have check the tolerances, you can buy the shims you need or think you'll need to get it in spec.

 

So question concerning inner fenders...anyone taken a BFH to them, how do you prevent the sheet metal from splitting at the seam. Rubbing on my 295s at full stuff (seams on inner fender are nice and shiny) and I refuse to reduce travel because of some dirty rotten sheet metal. The first time I tried to massage them up a bit the seam started splitting. Is my only option welding in new sheet metal to clearance tires? I'll probably be moving up to true 34s or 315s someday soon so I'd like to clearance for that. And no I'm not ripping them completely out and caging just yet

 

No real way to prevent it you either beat the metal till it splits and seal back up or cut it out completely and tub the wheel wells.

 

yea but you can do all that on the bench, which is way better then laying on the ground lol
your bearing kits didnt include shims?

 

Yeah thats what i figured. So what, beat it up and just stitch weld where its split?

 

That would work... Have fun welding that lol

 

Ugh. Maybe a little flux core welder might be low enough to not weld right through it or something lol? The FIL has a little dinky welder. Haven't powered up my Miller 211 yet, waiting on an actual work bench to use it on for now

 

fluxcore would run hotter lol. get a proper mig and tac tac tac tac it up.

 

Flux would be worse...tig if you can...you can do it with mig but I didn't enjoy it lol

 

Yup...what I did exactly

 

Good call. I know zero about welding, just have a want to do it. Have a Miller 211, bought the 110 adapter since I dont have a 220 outlet in the garage YET. Bought a 75/25 cylinder. Just need to use it all one of these days

 

Used to have a 211 mvp...awesome welder