Long Travel BS Thread

Just replaced mine with the kit from energy suspension and it did a fair bit for leveling the cab out. Now my bed just seems crooked so I'll probably add some washers to line it back up with the cab

 

Was it pretty easy to replace? When driving over a shitty road I can hear the door seal squeeking

 

Very easy. Just loosen one whole side and jack the body up enough to pull them out. Hardest part for me was finding a spot to lift from but I did it right by the front door mount. Took about 30 min max

 

Yeah do one side at a time, I jacked it up from the pinch weld using a 2x4 length-wise to get the most surface area and always had a jack stand just in case something happened when my hands were under the cab. The original rear mount was kind of stuck on mine so I had to used a long pry bar to get the body to release. It took me maybe an hour tops and that's because I installed the core support mounts wrong and had to loosen the cab to reinstall.

 

Do you have a drop bracket lift and are you planning on running it with the LT kit? The TC and Camburg kit only work with the stock spindle as far as I know for 4x4. On my truck, 33s will rub at full bump using the Camburg kit. If you want to stick with 35s LSK and Dirt Designs have kits that will clear 35s with minor trimming but they are a bit more expensive than TC and Camburg. I'm gonna install 35s soon but gonna mess with the alignment and maybe add a spacer to the bump pad like SMP Fab did on one of the trucks they built.

 

I like where you are going with this. If I had to do it over, I would of went with LSK just for the fact that they got those nice spindles!

Coot

 

Im not anti hydro bump haha shoulda clarified but seemed like he wants a simple set up with minimal work and cost efficiency so better off using the hydros in the rear than the front in that case!

 

Does anyone know if there is a difference between Seymour Stainless Steel Coating and Steel-It?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sem-16-054
https://shop.jimcorace.com/products/steel-it-polyurethane-finish-1002

I know steel-it is more traditionally used, but it seems like they are nearly identical? looking for something to paint my front end with that I can still weld on if needed

 

Mine took a good slam and the cab moved forward, and the bed lost alignment. They don't offer any bushing kits for the tundra, so I'll probably be going the direction of universal mounts for now

 

Note to those replacing bushings- make sure you loosen ALL of your bushings for the cab. Not just the side you are working on. Also, I wanna say its passengers side, the ABS lines that run from the inner fender to the cab need to have the wire clip released or popped out. I didn't do it until the end because I couldnt get the connector to release, but I jacked the cab up to where I needed it and the line was getting tight so I released the wire clip and it was fine.

I jacked mine up with a 4x4 right at a good flat spot near the punch weld (left a ligjt imprint but no damage) and then was able to cram some 2x6s in between my sliders and the cab to keep it up, while leaving pressure on the jack. Wasn't a fan of sticking my hand in somewhere that could cut them off if my jack failed. Jack placement is key, someone who will not be named jacket his up in the wrong spot and split the seam right under his drivers seat. Could poke your hand through.

Do yourself a favor and just use a wrench, i got those bolts out with the quickness using a socket and suddenly realized the fuckin wrench was stuck against the cab lol.

 

The steel-it is a urethane resin with stain-less pigment in it, the Seymour is an acrylic lacquer resin with stain-less pigment in it. That's the difference. Also neither of them are designed to be used as a bare metal coating, they are a top coat, they both require a primer underneath for full adhesion. They are both also not anymore "weldable" than a normal spray can.

 

Watch the YouTube videos it's super easy as long as you used a solid metal surface to hit the axle on(not concrete or wood). Don't use a press. I've never broke a cv if I've done it without the press. I have seen one broken with a press.

 

I only use the pipe method. But it only has worked for me if I use my welding table or a thick piece of metal on the ground. Couldn't make it happen on concrete

 

I guess this could be the Third dumb question, i never knew why everyone disapproved or hated engage kits i'm just curious lol i have a TC kit.

 

Buy extended axle shafts. Send them to CVJ, receive full extended axles then install the same day you remove the stock

 

thank you! great info. is there a particular primer you would recommend?

 

The 2nd gen CV axle horror stories are blown out of proportion. Either use the pipe drop method or better yet, source 2 extra CVs from a junk yard and rebuild those however you want before you even start installing the kit. If you off-road you're going to need at least 1 spare anyway. I've pressed CV stars apart doing the TC recommended way and pipe dropped the last one I pulled apart. The first 2 I pressed sheared the circlip perfectly the last sheared the splines off the shaft. I think I recall reading a report where someone sheared the splines off the star and ruined it but I can't recall where the report was.

Also the instructions for rebuilding the CVs should be on TCs website, if not, email them and ask, I received instructions with my order. Also, there are instructions in the FSM for rebuilding CVs. I used both when rebuilding mine.

 

Cancel your order for front LT and do the rear first. Your truck will thank you.

 

I don't think this is correct but it seems like you know what your talking about. It says right on steel-it's can that primer is not necessary. And yes you can weld right through it and the weld comes out just as clean as if it was bare metal. Normal spray paint does not obviously

 

i know ppl have asked but whats a good locker for the t100 axle? dont say ARB cause that snot gonna happen