Long Travel BS Thread

i have 7 inch glass in the back. i had to run a 1.5 inch wheel spacer and its still to narrow. but when i put a 9" in there ill make it wide enough.

 

already have the tundra axle lol im thinking 1.5- 2" spacers maybe. not sure. if i do that then i gotta do something with the front to match so its not stupid looking lol this was a terrible idea

 

Down the rabbit hole...haha

 

ill just keep digging my hole haha

 

I've actually been thinking about going back to a smaller bedside since the 7-8" I have now stick out past my tires by a whole lot more than I was expecting when I got them lol I have a narrow 9". I'm painting the truck as soon as I get it back from Jeff so I need to decide ahead of time

 

i like it like that in the rear. just needs paint lol what is your front kit in this pic? is he finished with it?

 

It's Jeff's but it's an old pic pre alignment or coilover adjustantment. The trucks back at his house now to finish up a coupe of little things as well as build some spindles to finish off the kit

 

were glassworks the only ones that had a 7" mold for first gen double cabs? im looking at 3 different truck with 7" and they all look different.

 

...and back to the heim'd steering discussion. I've always wondered why the topic always drifts over to " you'll crush your rack " and " keep the weak point " but no one ever zeros in on a couple of things and correct me if I am wrong but :

1. A lot of people want to move to heimed steering to eliminate BJ issues and to gain some more travel support / range of motion in the steering system it's not just strictly about beefing up inners.

2. Why can't you build a heim'd steering set up with a light enough gauge tubing that you will gain the movement of a heim'd, durability of a heim'd set up but retain the TR as the weak point vs the rack ? Does the diameter of the tubing needed ( 3/4 ID ? ) regardless of gauge make it " too strong " ? If so couldn't you simply flare a smaller piece of tubing at the ends to fit the heim ends ? This methodology is used in the bike business all the time with aluminum for example so smaller lighter tubing can be used then the ends are flared mechanically or hydro formed to enlarge them where they tie into the head tube or bottom bracket etc. They are doing this with chromoly bmx frames now too.

Hope that makes sense ? I'm not a fab guy at all but I did spend 6 weeks in @jeffz0rz 's driveway so that is roughly the equivalent to having stayed at Holiday Inn Express ( in case anyone remembers those commercials )

 

Pics?

 

Anyone know of a set of 17x8.5 or 17x9 wheels that have 5.25" or 5.5" backspacing?
All i can seem to find is 5" then it jumps to 5.75" backspace.

 

Racelines can do any backspace you desire.

 

Much appreciated. Never found them in my searches

 

Yeah I didn't understand why they made the bigger bedsides but not the bigger front fenders to match lol. I have Fiberwerx and they've been a great company to deal with. Super nice, shipped quick (couple weeks even during racing season), arrived good. Even the crate it was in has been doubling as a great rack to put my bed on lol.

 

You could very easily make a tie rod that has heim's on either end with a thin guage tubing "fuse" in the center... I would never do this for a paying customer though. Too much liability of it snapping and sending your customer off in to la la land.

I personally do not necessarily buy in to leaving a stock TRE as the weak point, I would upgrade regardless.... Then again I am not a fan of running a kit with a factory upright either.... The true problem is the rack. 2nd gen owners need to upgrade to a Tundra rack and be done with it. 1st gens are currently still fucked.

 

whats the difference between our racks and the tundra rack? I'm assuming its a 2nd gen trundra rack?

 

Is there a write up or any info on a Tundra rack swap?

 

I asked TC on their Mint400 page, they said they would get pictures posted soon, but no write up. I wish they would!