Long Travel BS Thread

If you are getting bypasses the adjusters would become worthless.

 

They will work, but out of the box don't do much, and with a tuned bypass you likely won't feel the difference between open and closed all the way.

 

Why would you need an adjuster when you literally use a Allen key to adjust your compression with a bypass? Lol

 

With the IFP position based control of a bypass you won't get any use out of compression adjusters. All compression adjusters do is meter the oil that enters the reservoir that is displaced as the rod enters the shock on the compression stage of a stroke. I would guess if you tried to close up on a compression adjuster while running a bypass it would just shift a tiny bit more work to the bypass. I'm just speculating there, and could definitely be wrong on how that energy transfer (if any) would work.

 

Same here. I just started getting into trucks and the stuff that goes with it a couple years ago. All my friends are city people so I'm on my own in trying to learn besides the people I meet on TW - a great resource for people like us who are learning this stuff w/o being able to talk to knowledgable people face to face.

 

Your builds on cars are awesome and I'm in the same boat - I can do everything on a guitar that I wanted to learn. Worked as a construction worker for years so most things around the house are no problem and I can record, edit, and write music, but for me the world of vehicle maintenance and mods is new. Between the maintenance and suspension / long travel forum there's a ton of stuff I've learned over the last two years. All I need now are time and money and I can put my knowledge to use. lol

Here's a wiring job I basically did from scratch



Now I want to be able to build a truck to that level.

 

I think you need a little more copper shielding...

 

lol believe it or not I had this same setup on my other guitar and I'd get sounds from touching the neck pickup adjustment screws. I had the same pickups in that one too so I was wondering what the issue could be since that one had come from the factory with the pickups in them. I thought it might be a microphonics from a bad wire / pickup, but after some googling I found that a lot of guys got that sorted out with shielding the whole back of the pickguard. Sure enough it worked once I shielded it the way I had on this guitar.

 

A good power conditioner to plug your amp and pedals into makes a huge difference too. If you eliminate the dirty power coming in it knocks a ton of noise down. Using higher end custom shop pickups like the Texas Specials helps a lot too. Even the American pro series pick ups suck by comparison to the hot wound 50's and Texas Specials IMO.

 

I have a potentially noob question - if I wanted to link the rear do the trailing arms have to come from the bottom side of the axle? Seems like I would lose ground clearance.

 

You don't have to, but it all goes into set up for anti squat and squat.

 

is center under the axle normal? or rotated to the front a bit more common?

 

It will depend on the style links you use and where you plan to mount the coilovers/shocks. Setup like and rock crawler or pro2 truck you won't lose and ground clearance compared to a dmz sua kit. But running canoe style trailing arms will cost you to lose clearance reguardless of if the links are mounted to the bottom of the axle housing or in front of it. If you do more crawling than going fast sua may be the better choice.

 

They are 50/50 I think under the bottom is easier for someone not familiar with suspension geometry to setup but in front offers more clearance. Most people linking their truck aren't worried too much about clearance. Most guys aren't rock crawling their desert truck.

 

Not necessarily the bottom but downward from center hanging below a bit. From the research I did and the design calculators there was no way to make it work right without the tabs hanging down at least a couple inches. Google 3 link or 4 link suspension design there is a ton of info out there to read. Download the calculators you will find and spend the next month learning and playing with dimensions.

Super basic explanation is that you must have a certain amount of separation between your upper and lower links at both the axle and the front end of the links too. In order to maintain a minimum required separation at the front of the links you end up with a separation at the axle of 8"-11" minimum at the axle. Within that range you can adjust the other pieces in the calculator to achieve good #'s. It's a super complex puzzle but those calculators let you play with it and figure it out.

 

Good info here, thanks. This won't happen for a while, if at all. I just want to know my options.

 

Simple baseline starting numbers are 25% of your tire diameter should be the distance between your upper and lower link mounts at the axle. And 50% of that number should be the verticals distance between your upper and lower link mounts at the frame. With that said link geometry is all about compromise and packaging. Figure out you center of gravity, the instant center you desire, as well as roll center and anti squat. Then go from there figuring out what will needed to be adjusted to fit.

The biggest benefit to running the lower link mounts below the axle is that your upper link mounts won't need to be as tall which is important if your keeping your stock bed and trying to gain more bump than the off the shelf sua kits

 

Anyone know if a 3.0 king shock will fit in the stock 3rd gen taco shock housing?
Got a +2 kit going on the truck and have been looking at getting 3.0 sho is instead of the 2.5

 

2.5 will be plenty for a bolt in application

 

That's good to know
But I was just curious
I drive like a maniac so I can't see a reason why having more would be a bad thing