Long Travel BS Thread

Yeah you will, you'll just have two wings nuts, a bolt, a nut and 3 dowels left over and lose your mind trying to figure what you did wrong and where they go

 

Do you mean torx or allen? I've never bought from Ikea.

 

Fuckin allen. Thank you, total brain fart. I don't remember the exact size, but I know I had to go buy one specially for it as the ones in my standard allen wrenche kit were to small

 

I like stover nuts if nylon locking don't hold well enough.

 

I mean I wouldn't reuse Nylock more than twice, after that they'll start backing off alot more. But if it's the first time that nuts been used (TWSS) then it's pretty doubtful it's gonna back off

 

@BMOC old truck is back up for sale I see

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2011-pre-runner-for-sale.501107/

 

Any valving gurus here? I'd like to valve my front c/o's to get me by until bypasses come in. Front is fox 2.5 and is WAY soft. Not sure what's in them, whatever they came with. Would like to get it to keep up with the rear somewhat and at least be able to huck it without doing this like I said, it's way too soft for my driving. Added 1/4" pad to keep that from happening againi have zero knowledge on valving so please dumb it down as much as possible lol

 

Werw the foxes new? Look and see if they have any numbers etched into them. It would be nice to know what valving they have in them to start with

 

@TMFF

 

Yea they're new from Kartek. I'll pull them apart and let you know

 

That plate looks awfully thin for a bump stop pad don't you think? Or the pictures make it seem thinner? The plate will definitely help. My knowledge is vague, but I see you have a tender spring, what main spring are you running? Maybe it's too light?

 

Springs set ride height. That's it. Valving is for sure the issue here.

 

If they were new they should have the valving on the receipt or you could call them and ask.
For a single coilover I would start at #100 on the comp when looking at the fox valving chart. That's minimum, it will still probably be soft.
If it was my truck with me driving I would be at 115 or 120 haha

 

I understand that they set ride height but why do some of the TT guys change spring rates when tuning the shocks? I guess I'm comparing apples to oranges here. But just as an example, if your truck is too soft, would you go with .020" shims or thicker/doubles or would you go up a spring rate?

 

It was 1/4". Now it's 1/2"

 

Should I do anything with rebound?

 

One thing at a time

 

They are fine tuning things to get the truck to handle/react in different ways, in this situation he needs to get the valving set right first.
If you are too soft with 20's then I would try going to a rate plate. Stiffening up springs is last resort, you will sacrifice ride quality on small chop doing so

 

Valving is 50/70 @TC yota

 

Sorry if it's a dumb question but what's a rate plate? I want to understand vavling and springing better. My dad has an older trophy truck and everything feels very rough, specially the small chop stuff. I have mentioned to him we need to corner balance it and reduce the spring rate some but how much I don't know. His Geiser TT is a different story, that truck is smooth as butter over anything.