Long Travel BS Thread

Racing I run 35/25
Playing hard 28/20
Cruising with wife 20/15

 

Yea pretty much 25psi for most shit 15 at the dunes cause I've popped beads before and 15 if I'm doin the creepy crawly and snow...as low as she go like 8

 

Anyone willing to let me ask a dumb question and give me a decent answer?

I've got Stealth custom series F5's in 17x8.5 with a -10 offset
I am not good with the sizing conversions and whatnot and want to make sure I'm not missing something.

I was running 265/70/R17 Yokohama ATs and they melted on the highway between Texas and Victorville

I want to get some Toyo ATs in a 33" and I'm not quite sure what size I need based on what they offer
And is a 33 still small enough I don't need to regear?

 

33's shouldn't need a regear for most people.

 

T

thanks man

 

You're welcome! Looking forward to seeing your truck transformed

 

It's like 88% done for suspension
At least for now
Cause I doubt I'll link it
But I may do a shock relocation at some point in the front

The custom PRP summit seat I ordered should be in this week (I hope)

I finally got the linex on my fiberglass fenders to dry (pita) so when I have the truck back I'll be mounting those

The truck still needs to get wrapped in the battleship grey (flat) that I'm getting put on before all the king logos and whatnot
And I still need to get a Ham radio/Spods/lights all figured out
And then I'll be done for a few months until I'm ready to order my front and rear bumpers

 

No need with V6. I ran 35's on stock gearing for a long time, on a 6spd manual no less.

 

With the 4.0 I can totally believe that
But to be frank... the 3.5 is trash

That's why I'm looking into a engine swap next year

 

Exactly I expect you needed a slight up in gear. Damm 3.5 , 4.0 Different story.

 

Here it is guys Third Gen Full Kill LT build check it out. Ill be finished with it Fri or Monday for a return to the owner.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lsk-third-gen-full-lt-build.504002/#post-15739226

 

I've been running 32 psi in my 33" Goodyear MTR Kevlars on my 2nd gen LT. Most of my runs are 200 miles from home and on and off the pavement. I also don't like flats so the idea has been small rock deflection. I've had a slow leak on my left rear and right now it shows 10 psi on the gauge but you cannot tell it's flat looking at the sidewall. I'm going to try 25 psi on my next run and see if there is a difference in ride quality and the ride quality on the small stuff really sucks.

 

New question for the 4x4 guys. Anyone changed the outer cv boot without pulling the axle out? If so what tool did you use to do it?

 

All you would need is the tools to remove the c clip and the cv boot clamps, as well as everything needed to free up the spindle.

I personally think you'd spend more time trying to brake everything down a put it back together than if you just removed to 35mm axle but, pulled the whole axle and changed the boot on your work bench. Axles suck to do. I prefer to do them in the best conditions possible so I don't make any mistakes and have to do them again.

 

Yeah I know it wouldn't be too bad to pull the axle and do it on the bench, but I've seen a few tools that allow you to slide it over from the outside. Either a big cone or an air powered one that stretches the boot over the outer end so you don't have to remove axles. Didn't know if anyone had any experience with that or not

 

ive read the build on the truck but 34k???

https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2002-toyota-tacoma-sr5/6241896806.html

 

Has anyone ever changed their oil without actually pulling the filter or drain plug? asking for a friend.

 

It doesn't state anything in the ad about buying you dinner first. no deal.

 

I've only seen it done two ways. One way is to remove the outer cv from the axle and slide a new boot on. The other is to cut the boot off and put some goofy boot on that's split down one side and is sealed up with some sort of rubber cement. The first idea with work just fine. I don't see the second lasting long.