Long Travel BS Thread

Link to this kit? I've never seen it. Though realistically I am debating between staying spring over and sua

 

Remember I'm only +3.5" up front so I'm also not trying to go for 20" of rear travel. Already have 12" with shock relocation. Just trying to be realistic as far as can I get the rear to keep up with the front by keeping soa or do I absolutely have to go sua to make the truck happy

 

Okay I've been looking through trying to find an answer but haven't seen any clear answer so I figured I would just ask. Is anyone running a +3.5" LT on a 2nd Gen Tacoma with no glass? Trying to decided between +2" or +3.5" LT, would like to avoid going to glass fenders with 35"

 

you need glass with that big of a tire. no way around it.

 

You will need glass with 35" tires for a 3.5 kit. Honestly it's probably best with the 2 kit too, but people do it.

 

Okay thanks. That's kind of what I figured but I just wanted to verify

 

Sorry but I read this as "all the way tightened" so does this mean you screwed the tie rods all the way in? Because that would be your problem. You need to screw the tie rods out since the tires are toed outwards.

 

You want the rear to out perform the front all day though. So 20" of travel and 13" up front will handle amazingly. If its a budget concern, it is what it is, Go with what you can afford. But everyone here is telling you that linking it has no negatives with the questions you've brought up. The only negative is you have less travel up front and cant fully utilize the 20" in the back.

 

Not a kit. Solo's link mounts self locate but you still have to build everything else. I'm hour and half from you, I wouldn't mind nocking out a little fab work. You need to ride in my truck before you make a decision. But honestly It depends on how your really using your truck, do you have another car to drive while your trucks down etc. there's lots of variables so it comes down to what suit your needs vs wants

 

Yes tie rods are all the way tightened or "all the way in"

The tie-rods are in front of the wheels, meaning when you tighten them, it pulls the toe in, when you loosen them (make them longer) it pushes toe out.

 

Sorry, 2nd gen. Used to 1st gens which are the opposite.

Carry on!

 

Lol, I was starting to question my sanity for a minute there.

 

@snowsk8air2 at least 500lbs with a couple inches of squat. Zero preload on coilovers

 

I can chime in a little...I got the TC3.5 front and have relocated 12's with bamf brackets with the TC SUA. The rear works decent for what it is, but def cant hang at the 30ish range on the trail as its much firmer just doesn't cycle obviously to the same extent. My recommendation is to go SUA/links over staying SOA. I am looking to swap my SUA to a DMZ one hopefully around Christmas time and will eventually drop in 16s. Many guys who are 2+ can get away with the SOA rear because I think the travel limits with it make it more balanced. With 3.5, I don't think you will be happy until you upgrade. To get 2.5 bypasses with SOA is a waste IMO since your rear will never match the front with that set up and bypasses are made for that perfect tuning that might not be able to get with your current set up that would marry up well with the front.

 

If you set your truck up to tow 6k whether its links of leafs it will greatly affect the performance of the rear when it doesn't have the weight behind it. It's a wash either way.

If it's a money thing go with leaf springs. It'll cost you about 4k if you build the bed cage and so the install when all is said and done. If you went with a pro2 style link setup in the rear it will cost around the same but involve making a lot more parts and completely designing a suspension geometry. Poor installation of a dmz may cause cracking of shitty welds or small handling flaws. Poor design and install of links can cause a death trap

 

Have you adjusted your alignment cams? They push your wheels out effectively making the tie rods shorter

 

Thanks for the input. Sounding like I probably won't be happy if I stay soa. Cost/ downtime are a factor for me as well, so links are out as that would require way too much down time and fab work. But sua is a viable option. Figure the camburg kit locates to all of the stock locations so that could probably get installed over a weekend and have the truck driveable while I build shock mounts. Probably won't be starting on anything for a few months, but I was just looking for some input from any of you that might still be soa.

 

I was in debate about getting the camburg kit, but I hear the amount of stuff you have to drill out can really draw the process out. If you have a second POV to get around then I would go for it. Since I don't have the tools anyway and would use a fabricator for when I do mine, Im looking to do the dmz one as that way they can just cut off the junk in the way of the frame and then move on to the install instead of burning shop time removing excess pieces.

 

Dmz is selling a bolt in bed cage for he Tacomas now too. So if you did dmz you may be able to get it all on in a weekend in theory. Just make sure you have some good help.