Long Travel BS Thread

This exactly. I have never built a LT truck before, but I have some knowledge from being in the power sports industry for 2wheels and side by sides that transfers over. I could probably be better about using the search function in this thread, but google is 50% people not answering the question, and 25% people ranting opinions and 25% actual help.

My silly questions about tire pressures last week and then about changing cv boots without pulling axles both had research into them and some opinions taken into account. But some of you guys have built some amazing shit and have a lot of experience, so people like me like to get your opinions and sometimes ask a question that may be obvious to you, but not us. I know to expect the bs and sarcasm, and not to get butt hurt about it. But I know some people can get really pissed off from the internet

 

this, 100x this.

 

Fucking this, Ive been searching non stop on a lexus forum for an answer to a common problem and I can't even find the actual useful thread to solve the issue. All I find is about 20 different threads with 2-3 answers saying to search

 

I know I could likely call TC and ask this on Monday when they open, but turns out my CV axle that blew also toasted the spline on my TC shaft. I assume they only sell in pairs, but was curious if anyone ever got just one of them instead of a pair?

 

Ohhhhhhh yea man that's right! I am 3.5! What say you son!

 

OK I'm glad you clarified that you weren't advocating using hydro bumps in place of a dedicated secondary shock, the way that I interpreted what you said, it appeared that you were doing so in the first post, since you didn't have any references to a bypass.

Now, discussing motion rations.....lets throw out a simplified example.

10" of travel at the wheel
5" of travel at the strike plate on the LCA.
Motion ration of 2:1 between the wheel/strike plate

Now if we take a 2" travel hydro bump and stick it above the strike plate, 2" out of those 5" inches of travel (at the strike plate) are in the bump's travel. Extrapolating that out, now 4" out of the 10" of travel at the wheel is being influenced by the hydro bump. Having 40% of total travel affected by a hydro bump isn't exactly good practice. What Jason was saying, is that when your hydro bump is affecting a significant portion of the suspension's total travel, it effectively ceases to be a bump and turns into a secondary shock, which they aren't designed for and don't do particularly well. There are a variety of ways to get the same effect as that without adding another "shock" to the mix, like adding compression resistance or closing off bypass tubes more.

This is also what @tubbsisland is alluding to, though with less explanation, and a bit more sarcasm.

 

@tetten
Thank you for this. Great explanation!

 

In prep for long travel build I'm boxing the rear frame in the next week or two. I may or may not be cutting out the tire carrier cross piece. Can anyone have any advice here. Should I have something like this with or with out the tire cross brace??? Thanks

 

Yes, do it and get get rid of the tin foil cross member there.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-frame-box-plate-kit.405001/

 

New issue popped up
So since that blown CV and brake loss issue
My steering wheel is now off
And I'm hearing a odd loud hum coming from the side where the boot blew

I can't tell if it's just these shitty Cali roads when I'm all the way to the far left lane
Or if it's where my exhaust got cut to make room for the rear to have more travel space

But it's loud enough that it's now droning out my stereo >.>

Thoughts anyone?

 

Our roads suck something terrible. Could be exhaust, probably just hyper vigilant for any problems now.

 

Steering wheel shouldn't have anything to do with the CV blowing, unless someone moved the LCA cams around or adjusted the tie rods during the blown CV incident nothing should have changed. Have you torque checked the front end yet? Even if the installer did, hardware could potentially loosen up after some miles, it's good practice to do anyway and is typically required in the instructions for aftermarket parts.

 

After the cv and brakes issue it went to Toyota HB and I asked them to check every single bolt washer screw and clamp on the front end

So that could have been the reason the steering is off

 

A few thoughts on this.

DMZ used to maintain stock tire carrier piece on 2nd Gens but reinforce them with extra overlay plating.

Other guys eliminate them completely and add in something similar to the X photo you mentioned.

Just remember if you eliminate it completely, you need to tack weld a crossbar to keep the rear frame from tweaking after you unbolt the tire carrier. The frame is so weak without the tire carrier that you can move it up and down by hand.

 

RE: noise - Did you check your wheel bearing after you discovered that the hub nut was loose ? When the wheel bearing gets really bad it is a loud groan.

If you have a stock exhaust even if you cut the pipe before the axle the drone should not be that loud

 

Good info thank you!

 

Expect a PM your way soon! Got super busy the last few days with getting ready to leave Alaska and head back to AZ.

 

I did not check the wheel bearing.
You referring to the standard just moving the wheel and looking for play in it? Or something else
You really think I'd ruin my bearings after that? I know that was 77 miles drive with it giving me issues but the truck only has 20k on those bearings

 

Yep

My buddy drove around the block with it like that and they were destroyed