Long Travel BS Thread

That was probably the most professional response from any fabricator on here ever

 

Agree'd.
Those axels look sweet.

 

Dirt King may have just earned my business.

 

From day one two years ago when I had issues with my dk hiemed uppers Dustin was on it to help get it right with alignment suggestions. Even offered to send me new arms when I told him I had rubbed the powder coat off from adding too much caster. Totally my bad with my wheel and tire setup. Dude is honest and grinding to get somewhere in this industry. Has all my support because he takes criticism and makes his shit better and does right by his customers.

#America

 

While I don’t post here much I’m glad I still read occasionally.

First off the cv boot thing. That’s funny. I really wonder if when I was setting my droop it was the clamp hitting the lower arm and not the actual cv binding. Guess I need to check once it apart again.

Next the bypass hoops. This one kind of pisses me off. If anyone recalls (I’m sure you do as I’m the dumbest forum member here) I had the first hoops or was at least the first to actually install them. Even from their shop as they’d only mocked them up. Who would have known the frame on a 2016 might be little different. Instead of just telling me they mocked up fine. On mine a hydraulic bump definitely doesn’t fit behind the bypass.

Oh well. Lesson learned. I still like my kit and have recommended dk to a few people. Just a little more thought should go into things.

 

So a air bump won’t fit with up against the frame ?

 

I eventually got it. But it’s not in the original bump spot.

 

Pics ? I mean as long as it fits

 

No pics as I’m not qualified to post those here, but it’s over from the stock bump plate. As some people here have said running a bump stop on the lower arm isn’t ideal but it’s the only choice I had. I was thinking of shortening it to a one inch stroke and upping the pressure. But a google search doesn’t really yield anything for a one inch bump. Most just do 2”.

 

You can get spacers installed inside the bump that limit the travel

 

It’s really easy to shorten em

 

Still would go with MCM fab

 

Hello Long Travel Thread!

I am thinking about going to long travel suspension (LTS) and I am doing some research. Unfortunately none of my off road friends are running long travel suspension on their rigs, so I don't have a source to ask questions and get answers. Hope I can find quality information here from you guys. The main reason I am looking into LTS is to roll with 37" tires. I am also more into overlanding than desert racing.

Curious if I can get a pros and cons list of going from a typical 2.5 suspension lift to LTS.
95% of my driving is surface streets and highway, are there limitations, cautions and/or differences in driving those types or road surfaces?
Do you loose sway bars when on LTS? How does that effect surface street and highway driving?
Biggest question; should I save the money, time, and headache and NOT do a long travel set up?
Maybe I am not asking the correct questions?

thanks taco bro's!

 

Sparknotes: Longtravel is a rabbit hole. If you're doing low speed overloading and have a ton of weight on your truck thats going to keep you from high speeds (rtt, steel armor, etc etc) then imo long travel won't benefit you based on what you're saying in your post.

It will give you basically the same amount of lift as running replacement coilovers and ucas, running 37's will require a lot of cutting.

I daily drove my tacoma it does fine if not better on the streets but it sounds like mid travel would be fine for you, lose the swaybar on that set up too and swaybar is junk when you go to long travel.

 

What? A coil over used in the bypass hoop? So you would have two coil overs....?

 

The whole point of running a secondary shock is to run a bypass... the coilover just becomes a coil carrier and you do most of your valving in the bypass. Bypasses let you tune your spension in zones.

 

Perfect time to learn!!

 

Time to do a LOT of reading haha

 

its worth messing with em....trust me... valving can make you sooo much faster thru the rough stuff and handle better than off the shelf

 

Take it from someone who was in the same situation (and still is for the most part)...you’ll want to adjust them. I just left mine since they seemed pre-adjusted. It rode fine.

I’ll get hammered for this, but I was on a trip once and there were these big ass sharp face speed bumps on a back road. So I hit them a little fast (yes I have LT and I’m tuning it on speedbumps) and noticed some weirdness when I’d come off of them. Figured that was a perfect time to mess with settings. I messed with all tubes moving in big adjustments, usually a couple turns, just to learn what the adjustments did. You can read all you want and try to copy other people’s setups, but really you need to see what the adjustments change.

After that and a few more adjustments it rides way better than it did (which I thought was good) when I first installed it.

So yeah...don’t leave them as they come out of the box.

Also...someone can correct me if I’m wrong, but as you are reading I think fox adjust differently. Keep that in mind if you see someone did x on their kings that won’t do the same on yours.