Long Travel BS Thread

With that set up you should be able to hit one of these "little grass ditches" and be just fine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwCYB0MxbRs

 

Shit makes sense...XLT.

When did Texas become an idea?

 

Ah its hard to explain

You can PM me for my # and we can bullshit about it

Maybe you can convince me otherwise


I'll still come see you when the repairs are done in a month or so

 

It's the sharp sudden drop off that makes it dangerous here

 

Help spread the word..

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/jerez-broken-down-in-barstow-need-uniball-tool.548696/

 

Looks like the back roads out here in VA, MD, WV. No damn shoulders.

 

Just throwing it out there, LT kits with the lower uniball built into the arm, where the uniball sits on top of the spindle adapter are a much better design than the uniball being part of the adapter with the arm bolted underneath.

Best design being uniball built into the arm with a fabricated spindle with the uniball in double shear.

Difference between tension and compression load on the single through bolt.

The better design still has tension load on the two bolts holding the adapter to the spindle but you're spreading the load to two bolts instead of one plus the adapter/spindle mounting faces are more solid and have more surface area than the misalignment in its little recessed seat in the arm.

Also on the uniball adapter style, if the c-clip is on the bottom, the whole load is on the c-clip.
I've helped put a front end back together on a prerunner in the middle of the race course as a race was starting because of this issue, uniball pulled right out of the cup and stuffed the suspension. Lucky we got it all back together in time and the guy could drive out.

 

Was referring to 2nd Gen + 6 lug trucks of course, that 5 lug kit it is cool, don't know how the lower bolts up to the spindle but it is built into the arm and I know people have run that kit hard.

 

what about a 5 lug and a 6 lug truck ?

 

All about those dual lug patterns

 

Gotta talk to @Happysmiley about that.... that's his ride... I just work here

 

Just wait for some used Kings or Fox's pop up.

 

Nope

I ran foa once. They were gone after one trip around the block

 

why spend money twice?

Buy once..cry once.

 

Not a valving issue.

They were foa coilovers.

I hit a small dip and the adjuster collar jumped all the way to the top even though everything was tight. Way too sketchy.

Avoid.

 

Anyone interested in some axles?
T100 axle and tundra axle have both and can get them to SoCal if needed

Located in phx

 

lol if you think you could sell used FOAs for much..your kidding yourself.

You'd still end up spending more in the long run is my point. You'd be lucky to off the FOAs for half of what they cost new. So you'd still be a few hundred in the hole by the time its said and done.

 

If your fine with spending the money and not caring about the loss do what you like it’s your money. You asked for advice and got it. Every one said to hold off. Good luck

 

Hey all. I've been working on fitting my Advanced Fiberglass Concepts fenders (from last years gb) the last couple of weekends. I'm hoping to get it done this weekend. I've got a few spots to clearance that are still touching up by the a pillars and around the headlights. The headlights are giving me the most issues. The upper mounting arm that attached to the stock fender sits on top of the fiberglass, but there isn't enough material there to actually attach it to the fender. The extra thickness of the fiberglass compared to the sheet metal fender is causing the headlight to sit at a slight angle and hit the grill at the top of the blinker reflector. I'm thinking about either clearancing the fiberglass so the arm doesn't make contact or adding a washer under the two mounting points nearest the grill to level it out. What did you all do in the headlight area to get it right? I can get other pictures if needed.