Long Travel BS Thread

I did it.

It seriously sucked and I hope to never do it again lol

 

Are those wires going directly to the lights or to a relay? They shouldn't be carrying current in from the battery to the cab which they will be doing if you didn't put a relay in the harness. That's enough power that could start a fire and therefore you'll need a relay in the circuit. If you do have a relay and you have the positive, negative, and ground wires there, then ground out the ground wire to one of the bolts already used to ground in the interior - usually by the kickpanel down by your feet next to the door. The other two will hook up to the two prongs on the switch and like said before you can trial and error to see which goes where - it's a coin toss so it shouldn't take too long to figure it out.

The switch I used had a wire that got power from the interior fuse panel, a ground, and the wire that went to the relay to feed it the small current that opens and closes the light circuit.

Watch these videos and it will be hopefully way easier to understand wiring up lights. Also here's my aux lights wiring writeup:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/anthony-y-el-burrito-blanco.372728/page-4#post-13547645





Also buying a few soldering tools makes your wiring way more reliable - using

$12 alpha fry 24637 AM31406 Cookson Elect 40/60 Electrical Rosin Core Solder, Assorted

flux core solder

$8 SummitLink 415 Pcs Black Assorted Heat Shrink Tube 10 Sizes Tubing Wrap Sleeve Set Combo

heat shrink tubing, and a wet sponge (I stick a wet rag in a used yogurt cup) to keep your iron tip clean will make soldering a breeze and you'll never worry about running out of length to make it to a ground etc. I use a $4 and a $5 they get the job done no problem for the light gauge wires we use for this stuff.

 

There's a group buy trying to get off the ground for Bora spacers if you can wait a little bit. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bora-wheel-spacers-prep-feeler-gb.449952/page-11#post-17732572

 

Got any of those YouTube videos how to wire your truck up like a race truck?

 

Posted this in my build thread, thought you guys would get a kick out of it. Glad I kept my bed lol
And a few pics of the truck since I finally got it home:

 

I’m digging that strap set up on the spare. Got a link for who makes it?

 

Do you have a link to your build thread?

 

Shit man I forget the brand. Something similar to this:
https://www.polyperformance.com/pol...HBAH1PUlFpQGceZ3q6RFpk0sI_peDfHgaAlOGEALw_wcB

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2011-pyrite-mica-lt-build-bs.310050/

 

PRP Seats has one. That's where I was plainging on picking one up from.

 

Appreciate it brother...ordered!

 

lol I'm going to have a lot more experience in a few months when I start wiring up all my stuff. I think this is the general route I'm going with unless I get a good deal on a solid state relay block:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/poor-mans-relay-box.532401/#post-17068912

Along with a battery / alt / starter diy big 3 upgrade.

 

Hey Guys, I picked up a DTF SUA kit and am looking for some beginner info on how to install. The guy at DTF will not respond to phone calls, emails or Facebook mssg’s so I’m coming to you all. I live in Denver and will mainly be daily driving and blazing Rocky Mountains trails along with occasional trips to Moab. Won’t be hucking this thing 6’ in the air (for now).

I will be building a bed cage (similar to DMZ’s) with 18” either 3.0 or 2.5 triple bypass kings. I have the E30 Deavers.

The questions I have is, with the deavers, do I just need to maintain the factory hanger locations when I weld on the new ones or is it different? Is there different pro’s and cons to a 25 or 30 degree angle for the shocks? Where is the preferred shock tab mount location on the axle as far as top, back or lower?

Any other advice for the install you guys can throw at me would be much appreciated!

 

Anthony is busy all the time plus sometimes leaves the states for races down south for a couple / few weeks at a time on occasion. @Basikbiker would probably be a person who could give you some advice. I believe he had the kit on his truck before linking it.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/basik-built-taco.296798/

I sold an axle that Anthony used on his truck with the kit to @chasecamper who could maybe take some pics of how everything's set up on the axle.

Edit: Here are all the pics I've got of the axle:

 

Thanks for the heads up! Hopefully I can hear from him before I start welding. I will see if your contacts have any info that can help.

 

is the kit completely weld on?
if it is DM and i can tell you what i told dalandser about the giant 64 kit install.

 

share for all of us. im hear to learn not judge.

 

heres the short version.

Parts:
front hangars
rear hangars
shackles
springs
shock tabs
hardware

Setting Springs:
remove all the stock stuff. bolt on only.
measure stock springs; axle pin to front bushing. center-line to center-line
measure new springs; axle pin to front bushing. center-line to center-line
mark the current center line of the front hangar. scribe the line. DO NOT use pen; scribe
scribe another line as follows: new spring measurement - old spring measurement - .25" (or .5") forward of first scribe
cut off old hangar.
locate and tack new hangar.
do this one side at a time.
break down the new leafs.
mount leaf (the main one) to front hangar
compress the leaf against the frame until flat
mount shackle to leaf
mount shackle mount to shackle
let mount touch off top of the frame
tack shackle mount into location
let the suspension droop out, do not pull the spring down
measure spring to frame
subtract axle tube diameter and net spring perch height. this is your total travel.
confirm shackle is at 90 deg to the frame
if the shackle swings forward, measure difference. use trig if needed
cut tacks and move shackle mount forward this distance.
cycle suspension till flat again
move onto pinion angle

when everything is correct burn spring mounts in
repeat on other side

Pinion Angle:
slide axle onto perches and springs. install u bolts and u bolt plates. use wood/square stock to make spring near assembled thickness
bolt on driveshaft
confirm driveshaft isnt bottomed out. .25" is enough. even .125" is enough though a bit close
if drive shaft is bottoming, move front perches back to prevent this. repeat above, again
set pinion 3 or 4 deg below driveshaft
cycle suspension to middle, measure angles again
cycle to bump, measure angles again
confirm everything is good
adjust pinion at droop as required
pinion should be equal to or below driveshaft, always
tack perches when satisfied
cycle again with everything tacked

Welding:
Weld in front mounts
recycle
weld in shackle mounts
recycle
weld in perches
recycle

Setting Bump:
cycle till leafs are flat. this is after all mounts are set and pinion is too
if clearance to frame permits, go 1 ish inches higher
place and tack bump mount flat at max compression
depressurize bumps
put bumps in cans and place perpendicular to bump pads
measure and build bump can mounts

Setting Shocks:
depressurize shocks
collapse shocks to rubber bump pads, no further
install lower shock mounts
pick where you want to mount them. try not to go lower than the bottom of the axle tube
tack mounts
shocks can angle a bit. mine at 15 deg at bump. 7 at droop. 16" shock pulling over 17" travel

Bed Cage:
this is up to you
shocks may protrude above bedline if mounted higher on axle tube

Droop:
droop suspension
pick limit strap location
adjust 1" per 12" of limit strap up from bottom out
order parts accordingly

that the short of it

 

granted the above is for first gens, if its a tension shackle keep the leaf pack whole and jack it up until the shackle hangar touches off on the frame and move it back 1.5-2". this preloads the leaf and prevents the leafs from splaying out at droop.

i can go into more detail is there are questions