Long Travel BS Thread

worddd thanks! I'll hit ya up in a PM regarding the order. Shop should be sending it in soon.

 

I'm working on setting up and old 2wd camburg kit on my 4wd 1st gen and need to move the lower shock mounts. The kit hits full droop before the shocks run out of shaft so I'm thinking of moving the shock mounts to allow both the shock and kit to be at full droop at the same time and turn the extra shock travel into more up travel. It just seems kinda odd having the shock hanging off the lca vs the other 1st gen setups I've seen.


Here's the same kit converted by someone else. I'm not sure how they have the shock mounted more towards the top of the lca and still cycle any sort of travel unless they are short body shocks.

 

Is that other kit using the coil buckets - it could have custom shock mounts and it looks like they might be running dual rate coilovers, not a short body 8" from what I can see.

If you run the lower mount further away from the frame to get more travel out of the shock you'll have to run a lighter spring to achieve ride height if you don't want to have more preload than in the original location. This also potentially limits travel if you're unlucky with how your spring rate / length options aren't optimal in maximizing travel.

 

I'm not sure that's the only picture I have. I thought that too but you can still see evidence of the factory coil bucket.

Would that small amount away from the frame make a big difference? Its about 1/2" different than the original mounts on them.

 

I have my stock "buckets" still bracing a custom shock mount by cutting off the top and running it in there - I can't see if he's doing that or if the coil's infront of the bucket. I tried to run 600lb springs with my stock coil buckets / 8" shocks on my 4.5 over kit meant for a longer shock and custom mounts and couldn't get the kit low enough and a friend is wishing his shocks were inboard on his to get more ride height as well. If you want I can measure the lower shock mount to front cam bolt distance and compare. You could estimate the spring rate you'll need here:

https://www.ridetech.com/tech/spring-rate-calculator/

 

That would help if you had that measurement.
Sounds like I want to keep it as inboard as possible. The kit only cycles 12.5" and that's bottoming out on the inner fender. I think I can jist split the difference to gain some additional up travel but not put the lower mount too far outboard.
What do you think of it hanging off the front of the lca though? I've never seen that done but it seems like what needs to happen to get the full travel out of it.

 

Slightly different since mines TC but 11.5" from mid cam bolt

Sidenote: anyone have experience making their own kit using a name brand kit to make a jig? Looking to make new plate box uppers eventually

 

Good to know. I'm looking at probably 12.5"

 

Interesting - mine are about 11” but they’re probably higher up too.

If you box that shock mount in it would be ok.

 

Yeah that's what I'm going to have to do. I found another kit with the same thing done. I think they were just set up poorly though. He's at ride height but it sure looks like he has no up travel.

 

Looks like the 2wd version tapers down earlier, and has more of an "extension" sticking out towards the balljoint. Thinking that may be where the awkward placement is coming from, that 4wd arms are wider than 2wd to accommodate the shock location

 

lol, get outta here with that 6.0L iron block....lol. I've still got a manual transmission though with 4wd.....was not a cheap way to do my swap thats for sure. Hilarious that its also a 2006 though and funny that i also have idle issues..... Can't wait for my new Dirt Designs LT front kit to show up next month!

 

Anyone used the stainless COM10SS bearings for shock ends? Do they last longer/worth the cost over the COM10T teflon version?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-com10ss

 

The last set of 'cheap' heims I got from summit had far too much play in them out of the box. I tossed them and re-ordered the teflon versions.

 

I wouldn't go any cheaper than the teflon ones, wondering about the stainless.

 

After further looking the SS are new? So maybe last a bit longer than T

 

There was a lot of grinding and fitting to get the Ruffstuff to fit. It's for sure made for a gen I Tacoma housing. I should have looked in the DD but I was able to pick up local from Ruffstuff. Anyway. It's cut, welded and painted. I hope everything is in the right spot. 3rd is on it's way from ECGS as we speak.

 

I think it's not even for 8.4's - pre-coma housings.

 

@TMFF ?

 

In theory yes they will since the ball doesn't rust or pit to take out the teflon. But your still relying on the teflon to keep the tolerance and in a perfect world will wear the same as the mild steel parts.

I prefer FK parts over QA1 or aurora, the FK PN is FKS10T or FKSSX10T.