Long Travel BS Thread

Yeah

 

If leaf sprung and linked trucks both are well valved, it only really really shows once the leaf trucks run out of travel - which is usually with whoops or jumps from what I've seen watching videos. At that point the front still handles, but then the rear droops out before making contact between bumps.

There's arguments for why linked rear setups are also better than leafs in other performance areas I'm sure you're aware of, but I'd at least wheel your truck to see if you're not happy with the Raptor pack.

I grew up in the north east and don't see too many places with fast bumps where sheer travel numbers between leafs and links would make as big of a difference as running out in desert whoops.

This is a good video that shows leafs performing in bumps that don't let them run out of travel - don't mind the bit of bump steer in the front.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BxRAvAWA4Tq/

 

Yeah, I'll run the piss out of it with the leafs before I undertake linking it. Hopefully the leafs can keep up with the front...

 

I've build my truck with 16.5" in the rear and 16" in the front. I'm not worried about having it let me down with how I plan to use it - if I just wanted to go fast on big stuff I would have gotten a built truck and beat on it until linking it was in my ability level. If you focus on valving your shocks and putting your weight low and behind the rear axle, I bet you'll be satisfied until linking is your next foreseeable plan.

 

Did the raptor pack bolt right into the oem front hangar ?

 

Unless they're a custom set, I believe Raptor springs are 3" wide so you'd need a wider hanger.

 

LeAfs aRe FoR TReeS

Pissing contest aside, leafs are great and can kick butt but the small bump compliance / smoothness of a linked truck is hard to beat without excessive weight in the rear of a leaf truck.

 

LoL no.

I got front hangers from RuffStuff, boxed the frame and welded them on. Then got Camburg shackles and built a custom shackle hanger that I attached to the back of the frame. Then I learned a bit more about shackle geometry and moved the hangers forward 2".

Totally worth the effort though, getting the back end under control makes everything so much better.

 

I'm building my entire suspension around a specific weight truck, fully loaded for camping, so it rides like ass when I take all the gear out. That's fine, it's a truck, it rides great where it counts, and I have a jeep for a DD.

 

Yeah, I'll have to see how much the front outruns the rear with the LT setup. I'd love to have it working right and just ride for a couple seasons, and only build parts I know how to make for other peoples' trucks.

 

You’re more than welcome to ask questions, that’s kinda the point of an ad. And yes, more than willing to wait out a buyer. Took almost a year to sell the last truck and never really came off my price, kinda the problem with niche builds but it’s worth what it’s worth to you.

There’s still more race car suspension into it than most “prerunners” floating around here. I’d estimate about $60k invested (before labor) including the camper. I mean just look at all those loooooomens. For a truck that hovers stock kbb around 35, I’d say it’s a fair price.

Old Truck

Lol, the for sale sign was gunna happen until that shit got cancelled. I haven’t even posted it on the big sites yet so I’m not trying very hard to sell it.

Couple of reasons I made the suspension calls I did on this one. It’s not intended to get out in the big whoops so as they say an inch here or there isn’t gunna make a big deal, it’s setup for big rollers, on chatter board back roads and low and slow. You know me, I will always advocate for 3.5>2 except for specific reasons. TC also has their extended sway bar for the +2 kit, and given the height and weight of the truck it was always on my radar to add. I also wouldn’t SUA a truck again and would just go straight to a 4link. SOA is a little easier to balance loaded vs unloaded weights and we still did all the SUA go fast parts (hangers, extended shackles, bracing, custom deavers, 12” triples with oversized res, 2” bumps) pulls about 14 in the back maybe a little more. I also had zero interest in putting glass on this truck, but with a little sawsall action and some fab time can still fit 37s if I wanted.

 

Did you just try and justify your price based off the retail price of all of the BD lights you have?

Looks like a solid build but good luck with the sale. You're potential buyer will have to have mostly cash as you can't get a loan based on the value of your aftermarket parts in addition to the depreciation of said parts.

 

LOL Its price per lumen ~$2.70 each.

Not entirely true. There are several lenders in AZ and Cali that will finance the whole thing. You can practically go buy a TT on credit these days if you really wanted to.

 

I don’t understand how any bank would do a loan like that. When you consider what the trucks value is, and how the loan would need to be double the value of the vehicle. I sincerely appreciate you offering the military first responder discount and how willing you are to have professionals inspect the truck for sale/handover and how you’re willing to have Nico do a fresh detail for new owner. All very smart moves For you as a buyer to offer. I’m just genuinely asking how it’s possible to get that kind of loan in this day and age. I suppose anything is possible especially with receipts and insurance to cover the large ticket items you have on the truck. Are you planning to do this all over again on a full sized platform for more room for family?

 

I'm not a lender, so I wouldn't be able to get that far into the weeds but I'm sure you'd have to be extremely well qualified with a sizable amount down. I just know its available. I'm sure the guys at offroad loans would be able to give some better info.

Right now with the kiddo and both of us working from home full time for the foreseeable future we're probably just gunna go down to 1 truck for awhile since my commute to work is like 20'. Wife drives a fully built 2016 4Runner already which works a little better for the fam right now and is equally as capable (just not as bright). But eventually I'll get into a 250, keep the build "mild", maybe order another GFC but probably just go get a trailer.

 

A Ford F-250?

 

Correct. Lariat FX4 Sport, rubber floors, maybe throw their Tremor package at it with factory 35s and a 2" lift to hold me over for a bit.

 

Not that you asked my opinion but the obvious choice for guys like you with big budgets and wanting all the things is probably just buy a 2500 and PXL it. A good friend of mine just PXL’d his brand new 2500. The package is $20k and this is pretty much the end of the line as far as family comfort/capability/cruiser. It’s not my cup of tea but it’s the obvious choice

 

Eh, not a dodge fan and im not nearly instafamous enough for a PXL. Give me a super duty on a Carli Pin top and 37s and some lights and were dialed.

 

Give me a clean $15k 4WD truck, and $10k to put into it and I’m dialed. I’m a simple man hahaha