Long Travel BS Thread

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/white-knight-fixedtrd-build.126828/

 

Linex Ultra goes on relatively smooth, but $$$$

 

I'm on the fence about line x / raptorliner etc. vs hotrod single stage and / or epoxy primer and clear or rattle bombing it which is if I want to keep forever and don't have to redo it if I want to sell.

 

Linex is a superior product, but installers charge so much. The color matching is great and it goes on thick. It does a great job reinforcing fiberglass too. If you have the cash and the installer is good at full installs you can’t go wrong. You can save a chunk of cash prepping the vehicle.

A close friend of mine works in a coating shop that does it and they have a very hard time keeping anyone that’s good.

One day when the timing is right I’ll do it.

 

I'm still hesitant until I see what a flammability test looks like. Last thing I want to have happen out in the wild is a little fire rip across the outside of my truck due to a thick highly flammable material.

 

I’ll ask, but it has military applications for blast protection and cures via a catalyst in less than 6 minutes.

 

I've been looking at Durabak.

 

Nice. The reason I was asking about it was seeing the spray in liner the previous owner of my truck sprayed in smolder and ignite just from making a few tacs on my bedcage. Not the same material, but got my gears turning.

 

@06HAOLE https://www.dezertrangers.com/threads/san-diego-prerunner.239890/

 

I recently had a tear in my inner cv boot, (01’ TC kit), I picked up a new Cv and a 930 boot...my question is before I start trying to figure that out is it really worth the hassle of modifying it with the 930 boot? Any advice is welcomed . Thanks

 

Raptor Liner you can just tint it, then add paint thinner to it and spray through a normal paint gun. Just do it in smaller batches when mixing. An of course will take more coats.

 

I miss that truck a lot. I never should have sold it.

 

I just asked my friend and he wasn’t sure. He pretty much mentioned the same things I did. I did a search on the home LineX site and I keep seeing “flame retardant” coming up, but I’m not sure if that’s a specific product or all of their polyurea materials.

It’s a worth a phone call to them. I’m curious now.

https://www.linex.com/beyond-the-bedliner

 

Linex is flammable and toxic a fook, you burn or grind it and get that smell in your head and it lasts for days...gnarly shit

 

So it must be good shit then

 

Toxic? It’s approved for potable water storage.

What happened when you burned it? Flammable as fuck sounds like a spark hits it and it flashes off.

edit:
I think your anecdote is misleading. A quick search of “polyurea flammable” revealed:

Ignition: Cured polyurea has high glass transition and heat of deflection temperatures, however, it will burn when exposed to direct open flame. It self-extinguishes when flame is removed.

Melting Point: The upper glass transition temperature of cured polyurea is 450° F. At temperatures in excess of this, polyurea may melt.

 

I’m speaking from direct and personal experience, I made the mistake of coating my bumpers and sliders with it a few years ago. I have experienced what happens when you need to grind it and weld by it. The heat from welding for example instantly ignites it and it lifts/curls burns melts and the smell is horrific. Same if you grind it the dust has a horrible odor and gave me a headache so bad I puked. You should look up the SDS sheets.

It is a huge mistake to use it on anything that you could damage and need to work on in the future.

 

That’s what I was looking for, thanks. I’m still on board coating my glass and sheet metal with it.
Good insight into areas that take abuse and need repair.

 

Weight is a big thing to consider too. Even with quality bedliner like SPI and Line-x or raptor liner sprayed on thin, it could easily add anywhere from 20 - 250+ lbs of weight to your vehicle if doing bumpers, body panels, glass inside and out... really adds up. If you really need the protection like that sure it ain't too bad, but if you don't then shitty factory paint with a worn clear coat might not be as bad as it seems as long as there's something there. Kinda a big issue with this platform and offroading in general these days where people senselessly add weight and overbuild stuff and then whine when their 7k lb truck is slow and breaks stuff a lot when all the untouched stuff is built for a truck that weighs half that. Or their weak link gets pushed down the line to something big/expensive

 

How different is a engine cage to strut brace? Im finishing up my v8 swap and know I want to at least do a brace. I've already plated my front frame rails and will be doing a 4"x4" front cross member to get rid of the lower tie down points and bring up my approach angle.