Long Travel BS Thread

I’ve been happy every time I’ve stepped down. Levi has pretty much the same shit going on and is running 550 18” up front and 100/200 in the rear. Not sure what’s going on inside the shock, but it’s plush as hell. The full hydro was insane. It’s step two after 37’s with beadlocks.

 

Hydro is a game changer. After driving my buddies yota and the XJ I hate the tacoma offroad and trying to maneuver. When your steering moves rocks or shifts the vehicle over vs binding popping and breaking shit then you've got something.

 

The dual rate looks like a good way to increase spring rate without changing my up/down travel going to a heavier spring thus changing my ride height. I like where everything is sitting right now and want to keep it there. Just need some damn force pushing down on the rear so the front will stop slacking off. Anyone else have any feedback on dual rate coilovers?

 

I've wheeled hydro assist with a high psi pump for like 6 years, this steering rack stuff is brutal Reminds me of when I welded my front sa diff pre hydro assist

 

After driving his I knew that’s the only way to steer offroad.

 

Thats what I'm thinking. I know ADS talked to JD when they took over building my coils since Radflo buggered that up. Right now specced for 16" 650 but was thinking dropping to 600.
Especially since we built the new front bumper lost 70# there and lost weight getting rid of the old IFS skid, but then the LT stuff and the pivot kits added weight. So, I'd say overall lost 100# from old setup which was on 700# the probably should have been 650s

 

@Dayman Karate The two springs will allow compression through the path the smallest kx at any time - you make a drawing and figure anything you want pretty quickly.

Are your wheels spinning at this point? Sounds like a crawl box or bigger tires at this point will help more.

 

Bigger tires are number one, but that doesn’t take much figuring out just cutting haha. I’d benefit from hydro before a crawl box. The suspension stuff is kinda fine tuning, but important. There’s a disconnect in the front and rear and it’s not a lack of travel, they’re just not moving in a way that compliments each other and keeping me as level as possible. I don’t have the experience or knowledge to use the right vernacular to describe it.

 

Yeah I've got a pump, psc steering box, and ram. It's pretty damn nice. Coming from the rack to hydro I had to get use to how easily I can move around now compared to before.

 

Do you have videos?

 

Make a model of your truck - it’s a big flat wide front space between the frame in the front and an axle on long springs and arms in the back. Any way you slice it you’re going to limit travel over anything in the front first. Spring rate up front is the only thing not allowing your front to stuff more easily unless you experiment with connecting the suspension with sway bars front and / or (more the case now) rear.

The F in that spring / damping eq is how much force your truck’s engine can resist your truck’s inertia. Traction is what can increase that value.

 

I’ve got this older video. Nothing since everything’s been buttoned up but it shows the rear pretty well.

https://youtu.be/qzceGPccWng

 

I get what he's saying my XJ needs some work too in getting the front and rear more on par with each other and not feel like one is out running the other.

 

The more I read into the dual rate rings the more I think it’ll help. I have them not engaging at all now. Going to start with two inches off the slider and see how stiff that’ll make it on compression. I need to be in the heavier coil sooner I feel like. Won’t hurt to drop down up front too. One thing at a time.

 

Before you do anything else put a sway bar on the rear... it will blow your mind and you can thank me later

 

Think it’ll help at slow speed without killing travel?

 

It won’t limit the travel at all if you have the correct bar. What it’s going to do is force the opposing front tire into the ground which will compress the suspension more. It’s also going to give you way more traction in the rear especially since you are so light. Just because you have both rear tires on the ground from all that articulation doesn’t mean shit if you don’t have weight pushing down to get the tires to bite.

I went through the same drama a decade ago with my 81 and the sway bar fixed everything. Like I said I wouldn’t change springs or anything else until you put a sway bar in.

 

what anti sway system would be best? Yes with light ass springs and a light ass…ass there’s not much planting my tires at droop.

How do you figure out where to set the dual rate slider? That can be done in my underwear at 10pm without waiting on parts so call me hardheaded, but I’m starting there just to tickle my pickle.

 

I’ll measure my bar tomorrow but I think it’s a 1” from speedway engineering.

As for the dual rate just make sure the truck doesn’t engage the second spring too soon or you will go into coil bind. Personally I prefer a long single rate spring with a tender on top because it makes the rear way less load sensitive. This is a big issue with rear mounted cells especially with 80+ gallons of gas back there. The downside to the long single rate springs is you can only get them for the 3.0 shocks so you have to get adapters to run the 3.0 springs on the 2.5 shocks... but it’s way worth it

 

I’m pretty consistent in the rear with a 19 gallon haha my bed mounted RTT might throw it off a bit though