Long Travel BS Thread

@snowsk8air2 didn't you have some custom taillights?

 

DMZ sells a bolt in bed cage. I would stick with everything from the same company any time its possible.

 

From experience I would NOT do the H70's and do the 70HD's. I have the 70's and they are way to soft and have sagged out in less than a year. Worse decision I ever made. Buy the HD's and remove a leaf. I'm collecting cans and rolling pennies to buy the HD's. Yes, I have weight in my bed but it's way easier to take a leaf out of the HD's than it is to start all over.

 

Yeah I built some with KC cyclones. Well, I built one with them and ran with mismatched tail lights for like 3 years because I lacked the motivation to build the other one and always had more important things to work on.



With the recent back half I got a lot less fancy and just mounted them to some flat stock to finally have a matching set

 

Thanks for input! Looks like im going with the HDs with a leaf removed.

 

Nice. I ripped my second replacements off first wheeling trip with bedsides added back so I’m looking for stronger options haha. Any info on how you built yours?

 

Semi-stalker because I love the idea and since I can't find any free/cheap tail lights in my area right now I'm looking at a winter project to do this.

 

Oh snap. That’s awesome. I’ve got a crapload of those little trailer button lights in red and yellow that’ll be perfect for it. I can’t have nice things back there like KC haha

 

@Basikbiker has tail lights similar too but I don't have the pictures saved.

 

Yes these were the first ones I built for a buddies truck. I couldn’t find the pictures

 

i built some similar......they will survive a rollover....just sayin lol

 

Anyone have to mod their rear driveshaft for a SUA conversion? My truck has been converted to 4x4 so I am running a stock dcsb shaft WITH a slip section.

How much travel can this driveshaft handle?

 

I’d be surprised if the ds was the limiting factor in any spring set up.

 

A little over 15in travel, give or take a little depending on perch height, is where it compresses fully on droop. That's why most sua use 16 shocks but run about 14-15 bumps to straps. Also about the point where most leaf packs start to separate too much so not much else to gain anyway. Although your setup may vary a little bit

 

Interesting. I didn’t know that. I never had more than 12” of travel with leafs so I guess I never gave it much thought until I linked it.

 

At about 19” with my long ass shackles, the ds is my limiting factor. Could probably squeak another inch or so of droop if the shaft was shorter. That said the leafs are just starting to separate with my setup so no real need to shorten it. Makes for a nice reason to limit things as is.

 

Welp I’m surprised haha I had no idea it wouldn’t plunge enough to keep up with it. I was paranoid about it when setting up my links, but it wasn’t an issue at all. Granted my lower links are right below the carrier bearing so that probably helps it all follow a similar arc.

 

Nope. running the SUA kit from JD and have 0 issues. Never changed anything but the suspension.

 

Are you running the HD leaf pack? Do you set the ride height on that kit with the extra holes in the rear spring hanger?

 

Yes, the rear hanger is how you set ride height. I'm on the H70s. I don't carry a lot of weight currently, mostly camping gear in the bed and when I modify it with a bed cage, my tool box will be back there with extra fluids and recovery gear. For my DCLB I'm set at the middle hole on the rear hanger and it sits at a pretty level rake. I have 6112s with 650lb springs up front and a full plate steel bumper with winch up front. I'll definitely be adjusting things when my skid set and sliders go on.