Long Travel BS Thread

Whats your rear shock setup?

 

2.0x14" Fox smoothies, no bells or whistles.
I got em on a deal so I couldn't pass it up. Can't beat 2 miles for $400. They were only used to test the setup before they were replaced with ADS.


Eventually I'll probably go to Fox Factory Series 2.5x14" smoothies with the DSC adjusters from Accutune since I don't make big boy money to afford a proper setup with bypasses.
https://accutuneoffroad.com/product...actory-series-remote-reservoir-dsc-14-travel/

 

Some bump action

 

Anyone in this thread know if a tundra rack and tie rods would be a straight swap for +2 LT kit? Considering i have double shear outer and had custom length tie rods made if i decided to keep tundra thread size. I know most ppl get the modified rack but most are looking for stock application length and outer tierod.

 

You can't just drop a tundra rack in, you'd have some funky steering geometry.

 

I figured as much but thought it made a little sense lol

 

solo or basikbiker make tundy racks that are cut down to Tacoma width….any wider would really mess with your steering during suspension travel id think.

 

Yea I know all about that haha I was just wondering if there was a difference since LT was in play vs stock width. Would be nice to have a off the shelf solution once the frame and steering shaft was modified. But I’ll probably go that route.

 

Imagine a line from your inner lower control arm pivots to the inner upper control arm pivots. In theory the inner pivot of your tie rods should fall within this imaginary line. Moving them outside or inside of the line by too much will cause the wheel to turn under compression or extension, this is called bump steer.

 

It is possible you will have some shaft bind at full droop. No matter what, DO NOT take anybody's word you can just slap this stuff on without cycling everything bump to droop. You’re going to have hiccups along the way, you’re going to have unplanned expenses. When I did mine I had a 6k cushion set aside for anything unexpected. Ended up going beyond that cushion. Be prepared.

 

Thanks for the advice. This is definately not something im going to buy and throw on a saturday evening. My budget for the rear was originally about 5k but im thinking its going to be closer to 8k.
And this is my first LT build so Im also scared of spending my money on something that looks cool sitting still but rides like shit or doesnt even function correctly. Trying not to talk myself out of it.

 

It’s a worthwhile, but expensive journey. If you put the time and effort in you will learn a ton. From geometry to shock tuning and really dialing things in for your liking.

I will say @81Trekker and Jesse over at JD fab were always a pleasure to work with. Super helpful and very responsive. I’d give them a serious look. Their front and rear kit is baller.

 

Im itching to pull the trigger on any one of 4 kits ive been eyeing but dont want to blow my load without all my research.

This is probably the last time ill ever have this much money to play with so it HAS to count.

 

Bilstien 5100’s all the way around, Dakar leafs, and jbl ucas ow whatever they are

 

I believe the only LT kit that is designed around an aftermarket steering system would be the marlin kit. Everything else is based on tacoma geometry. Most LT kits are very similar, inner joints will be the major difference and then lower arm design and shock packaging.

 

In theory yes, in practice this is far from correct.
I suggest looking up an IFS calculator and playing around with it, its pretty interesting.

 

JD slide rack is NOT factory geometry. Their setup allows you to push your tires up to 1.875” forward.

 

Im pretty sure most LT kits move the wheels forward. Atleast thats what ive been told. And we were mostly talking about steering solutions. The JD kit is based around factory geometry, it uses a factory spindle and inner pivot points and thats why thier slide rack isnt necessary to run thier kit. They did play with ackerman by moving the inner tie rod forward with thier steering solution. Which needed to be corrected by moving the outer pivot forward. But again, they used a factory spindle during this process. I also dont consider the subframe or slide rack part of thier LT kit, they are sold separately and can be run independent of each other. The marlin kit is not like that, you need the land cruiser rack or your shit will be fucked up. You can only change the factory geometry so much when your using factory pivot locations and spindles without having negative effects of on road or offroad performance.

 

How far forward did you end up at?

 

anybody put an lsd in the front diff?

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