Long Travel BS Thread

you can do that because of how they have the lower arm spacers setup.....steering stuff stays in the same spot. and in real world application the ackerman changes that happen arnt all that noticable.

 

now im not a financial guy or anything but i been burning money in this hobby a while.....save some money for when the truck breaks after you do all your mods...its going to happen if you offroad it. couple weeks ago for example went for a mellow mountain drive, popped a sidewall on a brand new tire, broke all the studs off one hub, wheel passed me drivin.. ruined the wheel......liesure drive cost about 1000$ to fix....and i didnt even get to do anything cool.

budget for repairs lol.

 

Would you need unlocking hubs to accompany that for the street?

 

The inner steering pivot is in fact not in the same spot. And you cannot push all the way forward without the slide rack. And I can say from experience, the turning radius is as good or maybe even better than factory with the +4. So it does in fact do something.

 

I have manual hubs

And no not really, it would have a lil torque steer feel when u get on the gas in 4wd.

My 500 horse focus has a limited slip diff I put in it....and its front wheel drive lol

 

Say in fact a few more times to make yourself feel better lol

What hits? to keep ya from pushing the arms forward? Tierod to coilover?

And saying you" think"it turns better
It's ok if you can't really tell what steering Ackerman characteristics and changes actually do

 

Yes tie rod to coilover. And I do fully understand what Ackerman does. And I can say it does certainly seem to turn better than my fiancés bone stock tacoma.

 

Whats everyones method of removing coilover or shock ends? Found a vice clamp from kartec for 30$ but shipping is 20$ so no thanks.

Thinking of drilling a hole in a 2x4 and splitting it in half to use to clamp, is this strong enough or will I need aluminum clamps for vice?

 

If your east coast. See if DownSouth will sell ya one? Maybe Barnes has em?

 

Will check it out, thanks!

 

You need aluminum soft jaws and some heat. They aren't usually too terribly tight once you get them warm. Just buy some more shock rebuilding tools while you're ordering from kartek. They always get me for more than I wanted anyways lol

 

I miss motocross. Not a cheap hobby but wwaaay less expensive than this

 

I think the best method for removing shock ends is to put it into boiling water. That’s usuallybemough heat to loosen up the loctite for easy removal. And aluminum jaws are definitely the preferred way to hold shock shafts.
I have these spring tools. Did 700lb springs with no issues. https://rcagarage.com/shop/fabricat...4KmxK7YIIIWdS7hbT89D_-1NsgiK2dn4aAo_BEALw_wcB

 

Why do people run lift spindles with LT?

 

I have those same ones but the $50 Chinese ones (probably all from the same factory). They’re fantastic.

 

Tire and chassis clearance primarily and sometimes looks. Can only run them on 2wd trucks. The right lift spindles can also offer more strength, ie camburg or other fabricated spindles.

 

As mention same thing probably as spc ones. Just took springs on and off about 3 times with it and is extremely solid. Never felt dangerous.

$50 BILITOOLS 2-Piece Coil Spring Compressor Tool Heavy Duty Macpherson Strut Spring Compressor Set with Safety Jaws and Holder, Max Load.2645LB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PYR6NVF?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

What size bump stops is everyone running in the rear with a spring under setup?

 

I have King 2.0x4.0 but added a spacer to make them only a 2 inch stroke.

 

I’ve heard 2.0x2” is good with our trucks for the weight and up travel we’re able to get. So that’s what I went with