Long Travel BS Thread

I considered doing a Y-Str

My concern with doing that is the ratchet would be towards the center of bed and I did not want a tie down point in the center of the bed. I used two Toyota part number

$29 PT278-35054

PT278-35054 tie downs mounted just behind the wheel wells and then I just use two common one inch ratchet straps criss-crossing tire from the Chaos Fab bed supports and Toyota tie downs. But mine is a short bed and where I put the Toyota tie downs may not work for you.

 

If you did it center, you could weld a tab to shock tower bar for the center strap and possibly use the two bed bolts there. Not conducive to space utilization though.

 

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Thanks i might do that in the future. Gonna steal 01dhrracers idea since I have the same bolts and save a few bucks on a strap

 

Hear is the same pic rotated 180. The way I meant to show it (not Suicyco mistake but mine). This is how I currently do it and it may change in the future. But the tie downs give me options, more so than I thought a single tie down in the center of the bed would. I also did not go with a Y-Strap and center of bed tie down point because that puts the ratchet away from the tailgate. But if you want the Y-Strap I would do three tie down points with one centered at tailgate.

 

A well tuned stock will always outperform a semi-poorly tuned LT.

 

Thanks for this link. These worked perfectly. That snap ring was a huge pain in the ass. I think if I ever have to rebuild these I’m going to sell them and buy more and shorten them as well. There is no way I’m getting that thing off.

 

dude that's very impressive work nice job. I hope i can build suspension that high quality one day for sure!

 

looks good!

Is most of that 1/4"?

What was the Arc and speeds on the plasma table?

 

Thanks man! Just slowly figuring it out myself

The internal rib and the under side of the arm is all 1/4” the rest is 3/16”

Thanks! 50amp tip, (40 amps/19 ipm) for 1/4” and (40amps/25 ipm) key is setting up feed optimization to slow the machine down in turns or doing holes.

 

yeah I haven't messed around with variable feed settings yet on mine.

what does it look like the kerf is with that tip?

 

Yeah, I’ll post some screenshots later tonite. Most of the accuracy is from that and the proper size tip. I wasted so much time trying to figure it out when the right size tip made a world of a difference.

 

I definitely still don't understand/appreciate the tip specs but hose 1/4 inch passes look so much better than what I'm doing. My air is pretty dry, but I hadn't been getting a good result with similar amp and speeds.

thanks for sharing!

 

Make sure you have the right sized tip for the material and amperage you are using. If you're using a different cutter, id lookup the best cut height.

 

All that work you might has well just kept it on leafs

 

Has anyone yanked the abs system but left the ECU connected to keep things like the e-brake light happy?

Other question is regarding brake proportioning. If the downstream abs sensors are gone but you keep the abs unit plumbed, will it maintain proportioning?

Otherwise I’ll just keep ignoring the traction/abs lights and add a wilwood proportioning valve at some point lol.

 

All dash lights can be solved with a pair of pliers at the leds on the dash circuit board

 

Yeah that will happen with the abs/traction lights regardless, but if I can retain the ebrake light easily, that’d be cool. If not, owell. Abs module is long gone on this truck I now have.

 

I only got 16" of clean travel with my last setup with frame notch and rubbed my 3k$ shocks to shreds because I don't want the ass end 6" wider per side. if you have a better method please let me know. This setup fixes all my problems, is more adjustable/tunable, and has more down travel.