Long Travel BS Thread

Sorry bro, asking because I don’t know any better lmao

 

See the motion ration is something I’m trying to learn about too, I’ve read the technical explanation and how to find it but I still don’t understand it.

 

The point was...dont try to reinvent the wheel...I know you've been looking at tons of trucks....do what they do. SUA on our trucks is pretty much been dialed in by almost every fab shop. Though if I were you i'd just go with the JDfab kit and be done with it. It can use either the 14inch under the bed or 16's into a bedcage you fab yourself.

To throw another wrench into it....leaf springs do not move straight up and down they move in an arc. My rear end moves about 2.5 inches rearward from full droop to full stuff. So...with that my shocks are mounted about 1 degree forward at full droop..then strapped a little shorter so as to protect my shocks from ever going over center. But I can get almost 18 inches of travel metal to metal out of a 16 inch shock because of the rearward movement....somebody can do the math and get the motion ratio out of those 2 numbers.

 

This is exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks bro

 

How did you change your user name?

 

Ok...I thought I was losing my shit....I was swearing to myself that the name was different when I replied.

 

Emailed support lol scroll down to the bottom of any thread and select contact us

 

clears throat… cough…well technically your axle on your leaf springs move in a variable parabolic arc and your axle housing also rolls as your springs travel through that parabolic arc…So, your lower shock mounts are basically rocking back and forth on an uneven radius as your suspension compresses and droops. That is why if you ever run any sort of traction bar set up you must run the front pivot for the trac bar as a shackle. If you don’t you will bind your leafs and break a main …ask me how I done learnt that there lesson

 

So what you’re saying is just link it

 

Wanna give me several thousand dollars? Lmao

 

There isnt really a huge diff in price between a linked setup and SUA anymore. Again to sound like a JDfab fanboy.....they have a kit for either SUA or links....most of it depends on you ability to fab something for your upper shock mounts the rest is pretty straight forward.

 

Yeah but who is linked with a stock rear axle? Anyone pushing the truck hard enough for links isn’t sticking with the 8/8.4 pumpkin and then you’re looking at about 12k in parts. Even those pushing their SUA setups hard do away with the stock axle.

 

I thought about going linked but I’m not planning on pushing it that hard, she’s still my daily lol I wanna go LT because I’ve wanted it since I was in high school and because I live in the desert and going fast on trails is fun. And I plan on having the family vacation be in Baja every year I know I don’t NEED LT for all that buuut it sure is a lot more fun

 

Putting in the ford 9 full float has been the best upgrade for me considering I blew 4 diffs and bent 2 stock axle housings. It’s a must for piece of mind when you’re trying to keep up with @81Trekker in ocotillo.

 

Links also have double the shocks cost. That was the big deciding factor when I did my back half and keeping with leafs. Also I already had the geometry figured out.

 

What’s with the giant bump wear pads?

 

The new axle actually sits lower than the original axle. The spring perches were different. Instead of cutting off the bump cans off I just machined up some taller bump pads to fix the issue temporarily.
Until I find some time to fix it this will do. Gonna need to do some shock relocation over the summer.

 

What’s the multiplier for linking the front?

 

So after a long hiatus I’m back!! Just over 8 years ‍♂️
rook her out for a shake down run at Pismo… and shake her down we did! Felt sooooo good!

 

Post a bunch of photos on build
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-dirt-yota-lt-build.396918/page-16