Long Travel BS Thread

231

 

So ive watched the vids and read the forums...(King 2.5) To set an IFP depth, all I have to do is bottom it out in resi (after cycling to remove air), and let shock body overfill while pushing in seal cap? And that will in turn move the IFP back some?

 

That’s what I did, which I learned here.

Remove shaft from shock, pump up reservoir with bike pump (be careful because when it moves it might shoot oil everywhere so put a rag over it). Once that’s done release pressure and valve core. I top off the shock to maybe 1/2” below the top. Insert shaft and jiggle/move up and down to bleed. Wrap shock with a rag, push seal body down and spill oil everywhere.

 

I was going to get a piece of threaded rod for pushing/pulling the ifp, I assume thats acceptable in place of air pressure?

 

Yes. You need to cycle the IFP regardless to bleed the air out. Fill oil to the clip seat. Slowly push the seal cap down, then I like to push the IFP in one more time as it usually pushes some air out around the seal cap, then just jam it in.

I bent 1/4-20 threaded rod into a T handle and put heat shrink tubing on most of it.

 

YMMV. But the bike pump was way easier for me than the threaded rod. When I did it that way it was a bit hard to move. Either way works though.

 

That’s a good idea. I was just using pliers on the rod. Didn’t work great.

 

Yeah, you have to cycle the IFP regardless if the oil was dumped. You’d be amazed at how much air pushes out sometimes. Skipping that step is no good.

 

Agm also makes a really nice tool for moving the ifp and has a tape measure built in to help set depth.

 

So when it comes time to push the seal cap into the shock body, the ifp should be bottomed out correct?

 

Yes. But it won’t be fully bottomed after pushing the cap in.

 

Is there a spec'd measurement I should be seeing? Or just 1/4 to 1/3 of the resi depth?

 

Fox has their depths posted online but king you would have to call and ask about but yeah 1/4 to 1/3 sounds about right.

 

Thanks everyone

 

King is just going to tell you to bottom it out. Depth is mostly important for non reservoir shocks.

 

Most important thing about setting ifp depth is that it’s not too far out and the shock hydro locks. I always do the bottom it out before pressing the seal in method. But I still check that it isn’t going to hydro lock after assembly. Just throw like 50 psi in the shock and compress it fully. If you can then you’re good. If you can’t, something’s wrong

 

I’ve always compressed the shock fully then added air to the resi….if the shock shaft fully extends then you’ve done it right. If you can pull the shock shaft any amount out after adding pressure to the resi something is wrong.

 

Usually that will mean there is air in the shock body and it wasn't bled correctly

 

Drop an update in here when you do, please. This is next on my list

 

I too am curious. But one thing that has me a little apprehensive is the size of the bearing used. It looks to be about equivalent of the OE bearing. With how much room there was, why not go with something bigger which would definitely add life.