Long Travel BS Thread

Fuck I have all of that and still no cage... or long travel

 

I believe for most bumps that have the lip, they are designed to be installed ‘lip to lip’ with the bump can. I can’t see anything good happening with mounting the bump lower in the bump can and risking over torquing the pinch bolts. I don’t have any experience just a theory. The other risk I see is the bump moving up in the can from bottoming out forces and possibly causing damage to other components? Again, just a theory.
Correct me if I am wrong but I believe King went away from the pinch bump can design to the pin/threaded top. Fox and a few other shock companies I see still have the pinch design.

 

4 years ago Ben at Filthy told me the same thing about a cage when we were discussing the mid travel I was looking to put on the 4Runner. Now with a +3.5 and plans for the 4 link, I should think about a cage. Most of us most probably should even with a stock suspension, depending use and terrain. Is it in my budget? Big time "NO".
Not to mention my lack of knowledge and fab skills.
Does it come down to personal responsibility at that point?
Some people have the "hold my beer - Florida man" mentality, and bad things happen all the time. Ever seen the jumping Raptor airbag video?
So I think the responsible thing for Ben to do is recommend a cage. There may even be some liability thing at play when Ben is doing a consultation. If State and Federal politics ever gets involved, they will go after the vendors first, just like the emissions laws have clamped down on them currently.

Micheal Allen from TC has a heavily modified sleeper 1st gen, 1" over stock length front w a totally sick leaf system. This is a good example of a Prerunner probably in need of a cage. Would I trust Micheal to give me a ride at speed? Hell yeah because he built it, knows how to test it, and knows it's limitations. Florida man? Not so much....
https://youtu.be/x8eEEefx2dA?si=InHgI_mh08lN5bdb&t=939

 

I don’t see it working out well for me. May crush the seals before enough torque is made to keep the bump from moving on big hits. That lip does a lot. Oh well, can’t blame a guy for trying to work less on his hobby haha

 

Having a truck is pointless! Just drive a cage around.

 

yes.

 

From a liability standpoint, this is the responsible statement. From a performance standpoint, no. Not that I disagree that a well tuned stock length setup won't fulfill the needs & desires of 90% of the drivers out there but there's not doubt that an LT kit has it's benefits. This is most apparent in the rear setup. I agree with @MI-FLoffroader on this. It's more of a "just because you can, doesn't mean you should" scenario than anything else.

A cage provides the additional safety & rigidity that you will want if you're pushing an LT setup to it's limits.

 

Just dropped off my truck for alignment after installing Camburg 3.5. when I was driving it to the shop, I noticed that the front wheels felt like they were binding a little when the steering was in full lock. Felt similar to being in 4wd but not quite as bad. Is this common with LT or just my f-ed alignment?

 

Most likely

 

Alignment

 

Yeah that was it

 

How many of you with linked trucks kept the bed intact (minus a couple big holes) and used a bolt in bed cage rather than a bunch of tube work tying into your cage?

 

Random Question: What are people using for steering rack boots when they install JD Fab Tie Rod Ends and Camburg's Steering Clevis Kit? Thanks in advance.

 

This. I want to cover up my rack now that I have the steering slide rack

 

Question: how to cover up your rack.

Answer: with a shirt of course.

 

Here we go again lol.

 

It is a BS thread, after all.

 

My 3 link does not have the coil overs coming through the bed. The CO towers were built to exactly match the shape of the short bed wheel well and the bed cage bolts through the bed to the towers at two points ( 4 bolts each ) on each side.

edit - of course this means you bump at the frame and with a 12” CO it cycles 20” bumped and strapped.

 

That's a lot of travel. I neeeeeeed

 

Here’s what ended up being my best solution for my tundra rack. This boot, hose clamped onto the rack, loosely zip tied onto the tie rod, and soak the inside of the boot with fluid film to act as a lubricant and a rust preventative. The lube was the key to get the bolts to not get caught on the ribs of the boot. I didn’t try a normal tundra boot with the lube which might also work.

$20 Flexx Boot FB4000 Universal Replacement Rack & Pinion Steering Boot

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2M76MO

If I misunderstood your question and you have a JD slide rack, there is no boot solution.