Long Travel BS Thread

Seen a guy do this twice with their +5 shafts. He was hard on it but it is crazy the shaft broke before the oem tacoma joints.

 

Is that the guy running 40s? That truck is insane

 

Haha yes this was his first trip with them. Not saying something shouldn’t have broken but that bar should outlast the joints. They used to advertise 4340 or 300m but it looks like that was pulled off the description. Could be heat treat issues as well or just that the bar necks down too much in the middle.

It was a hard bump with the front unlocked on this ledge


Gotta add my garbage flexing on 40s next to all the nicer builds

 

That's badass. Your 4runner looks pretty solid too. I wonder how much he had to tub to fit those 40s

 

“Fit” means very different things to different people.

 

yeah the oem joints or diff in general with the add tube should be weak points long before the axle shafts themselves…

 

Anything can fit if you bump early enough.

Wicked does a lot of things for several platforms but not seeming to get popular with any one specific product. Most of the major brands have stuck to a smaller number of platforms before branching out, but anything is possible; who knows how they’ll turn out as a company. Their welds have definitely gotten better or they’ve been able to hire better welders anyway.

 

Just looking at how much fender he still has I would say he’s not bumping very high…

 

Yeah that's true lol, doesn't look like he dug very far into the firewall either

 

I hadn't thought about doing a piece of angle. I might do the angle plus the 'spacer' plate. I can give up 1/4" or more of height; with my collapsed mounts I had to temporarily lower my fan shroud to keep the fan from hitting. The core support was already adjusted for clearance. My engine mount perches already have the DMZ gusset kit. Before spending $40 on two plates I should be able to build them. Thanks for the replies.

 

You could probably buy a cheap motor mount from a parts store to get the spacing of the plate and return it if you don’t have a spare motor mount handy.

 

I haven't bought the mounts yet but will be ordering today. The Toyota parts counter is about 20' away. I work at the dealer service office.

 

Are you still running factory motor and trans mounts?

 

I will be and will continue to. In the 15 years I've beat my truck this will be only the 2nd replacement (3rd set) of mounts. I'd rather them flex and break down than having anything else not breakable break (frame, perches, block). Same reason I run stock tie rods. I like the easy to replace fuse if you will.

 

Another option is to use silicon to seal spots like that. Not sure how it would work with powder coat or anything like that though. Obviously better to just not have spots like that to begin with

 

A little product called OSPHO used pre coating will in fact make that issue non existent anymore. That’s what I will be doing before coating the swingset components.

Most shops just use shitty coaters that can’t properly prep a part to save their lives. But they are cheap. So that’s why they use them.

 

@SoonToBeOn35s my suggestion is find a GOOD coater in your area. Ask if they do chem treatments for rust prevention. Also ask about either a high zinc primer or epoxy primer base coat.

Been at this game for over a decade, and your rust is simply from poor prep. It can be fixed permanently by finding someone that takes actual pride in their work.

 

Thank you for the helpful info! I've found a highly rated powdercoating place near me. I'll make sure to ask those questions.

Hopefully my truck will be rust free sooner than later. This winter hasn't been super strong, but each storm delays the tear down.

 

OSPHO or any other treatment at this stage won't resolve a pre existing issue like that though ? because it is not going to weasel it's way behind that overlay and treat the existing rust fully. The rust behind that plate will continue to grow.

 

It 100% will. Again, I’ve got a decade of this under my belt.