Long Travel BS Thread

I dropped a crescent wrench on a nicopp line on my rearend and saw that from how much it dented, it wouldn’t be ideal anywhere likely to be struck with a flying or falling rock or reasonably heavy tools / equipment. But out of the way it is easy to bend and flare - much easier than any stainless / standard steel lines.

 

The reason I like getting rid of the female to female soft line on a somewhat stockish rig (especially one with uca bolt gussets) is to make more room to access engine bay components, especially the starter. If gr’s are anything like vz’s, then fishing the starter up through the space between the coil bucket and the frame is pretty tight and sometimes requires to remove the bolt holding the hardline junction if not push the mini hard line out of the way and it’s easier to just get rid of it altogether. I’ve done that on my wife’s 4runner when I rebuilt the front end as well.

For my project truck I’m repositioning things to be out of the way and accessible to maintain. Mainly to get rid of the awkwardly placed junctions on the first gens where you have to get in the small space between the firewall / cab to get to some of the important lines like the frame junction going to the rear. Using stainless since I will go with single flare to accommodate AN. AN made sense once I started mixing sae and metric for front vs rear calipers and a proportioning valve it was a messy situation of lines with different fittings on different ends and not optimal for replacing parts / making spares if need be.

The other part I didn’t like on the lines I had already bought for my first gen was that I couldn’t find anything other than bent (30/60/90*) fittings and they would be slightly twisted between the frame and the caliper despite the best efforts to clock them correctly. If you map it out it’s not bad, but if it bugs you a lot, it can be reason to go for another method.

A sand rail guy I met in Kartek planted the seed of going to AN fittings due to them never getting twisted nearly the same as they can be straight fittings if desired. G & J would make a straight female metric and male bent fitting line for me so the lines wouldn’t have to be clocked correctly when ordering them, but by then I was already more interested in AN.

Nicopp could be good for a small - out of the way line like next to the coil bucket.

 

yeah i just use coated steel since it holds up alot better than copper nic. but yeah i only used hard line on my truck to tee out from my wilwood master than due to twisting action from the uca travel i ran it soft from fairly high on the firewall to behind the bypass than out and down the backside of the knuckle. always just gotta figure out what works for your situation. biggest pain with soft lines is having to really have an idea of routing and a good measurment of length before really being able to even play with it to determine if its even gonna work. i just got lucky that the way i originally routed my lines when i put my dirt designs kit on just so happened to be long enough when i added the bypasses and changed things up a bit they where able to still work for me without having to get new lines.

 

They make different grades of the stuff too. Some is double the thickness of others. All I use I SUR&R

 

Sure is nice being able to actually stop...

 

Any idea what your truck weighs?

Or anyone else who is doing LT/go fast shenanigans and needed bigger brakes?

 

Its not just the weight of the truck, I do carry some extras, 200lbs rear bumper, 200 lbs of armor, along with roughly 350 lbs of tools and recover gear, but we still moderately overland too, I haul a trailer that weighs roughly 1000lbs. loaded.

 

So that's why I asked; my truck is decently built out for camping and such, and a trailer that I didn't think was too heavy.
When loaded for camping, my truck and trailer is almost 9k lbs combined; truck is 6200lbs dry.

I encourage people to weigh their trucks as most people have no idea how heavy they really are.

 

i weighed my truck before koh, just a hair over 6k.

 

I’m on powerbrake’s. The difference is unreal. Hands down, no better bolt on kit on the market.

 

Another vote for powerbrake.

 

For you guys modifying the front brakes, what are you doing to the rear end? Leaving the drums or doing a disc brake swap

 

If any of you guys want powerbrakes, I'll do a sneaky TW discount for you. Just DM me. They are awesome

 

i just wish they made a smaller version to clear 16” wheels.

 

Stock drums out back.

If needed, the truck stops like a race car (no joke).

 

funny enough that i have full willwood 4 pistons with 12.5x1.25 rotors in the back and just 14wa calipers up front....leaves a little to be desired, but my next purchase this year is the wilwood aero6 dm kit they just released.

 

Who da fuck still messes with 16’s?! Send them things down the road. You’d be doing yourself a massive favor.

 

Their D-Line kit is essentially that... Stock size slotted rotor and stock size pads. Uses the stock calipers, but definite increase in stopping power, and you still get the thermal paint on the rotors. Just installed a set for a customer today.

But honestly, 16s are done. Tire options are getting more and more limited, you can't fit bigger brakes, and you can't go above a 35" tire cuz nobody makes them

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/aFZpcp99OOQ?si=CyfPG83uGTNaizWI

Any transmission experts in here that could give
Me some insight as to what’s going on?

trans stopped shifting into 3rd, and subsequently 4th. 4L75E.

 

Biggest issue is it’s not a 4l80. Honestly, it’s probably done. 95% of the time when you lose gears in an auto it’s internal failure. Blown band, seal or smoked clutch pack. Since 3/4 packs are both used for both 3 and 4 I’m betting the clutch pack is smoked. And if you’re allowing it to hit OD off-road that’s likely the cause.