Long Travel BS Thread

Yes, that's what I was looking at

 

That’s essentially triple the headache when it comes to tuning whereas a secondary shock (bypass) would only be 1.

 

Kings IBP was made for racing classes where you could only have single shock per corner and no hydro bumps. Most of those classes allow hydro bumps now. But basically Kings IBP is a single bump zone. You can tune it with different needle shapes, but it's a pita because you pretty much need to replace the entire end cap. They work okay, but not worth it imo and I ran them in the back of my truck for a while.

Kings adjusters do work quite well, and I understand that most people want that separate low and high speed adjustment, but the reality is that unless you're really into tuning and understand it, it's actually nicer to just have one dummy proof knob that makes it firmer or softer to adjust for weight, and then do the actual tuning on the shimstack and piston.

Whatever adjusters you get, king or fox, they both do help with oil temps and damping having a second shim stack.

The fox adjusters can be finnicky maintenance wise, but @tacotunner06 runs fox DSC resis on his king coilovers. Though I don't know how much he touches them cuz he also has bypasses.

Foxes IBP is an actual IBP with more than 2 zones, so it is better than the king in that regard.

 

A long shot, but any chance someone knows someone with a 3d scan of a 2nd gen tundra steering knuckle? Before I go have it done, figured I ask.

 

somewhat related.... is there a first gen Taco spindle lurking out there on the internet that I have failed to find?

 

and I only have them because I was gonna run them on my 16” coil overs when I was gonna run without bypasses but I was advised against it so threw them on the front since I bought those coil overs used and the reservoirs where trashed.

 

This.

I’m going to have a long talk with my suspension consultant before deciding what I upgrade to whenever I eventually do that. The 2.5’s work well in the rear but could definitely be upgraded. Was looking at ads 3.0x5 tubes and then they came out with their mbr internal bypass which he states flows similar to a 7tube bypass and you can actually move where the zones are. But that requires disassembly to adjust them.

Been leaning towards external bypass for tinkering purposes but doing the mbr would set me up for going links some day without needing to buy shocks immediately. Just slap some springs on them

 

One of my friends got IBP's with clickers in lieu of a secondary and I've been thinking of getting rid of my dual shock setup for the same reason that he had, just not wanting to hear any clicking. Plus having to take out a bypass to replace a starter / work on some fuel lines / brake lines is kind of a pia if then having to charge it to get it back on the road. He said he liked them with his setup and weren't holding his setup back as it's usually the rear end limiting things.

 

Maybe it’s just me but I don’t hear any bypass clicking in my truck. And I have them front and rear.

I got in @snowsk8air2 ’s truck with the cage and his were super loud. Was honestly pretty cool.

 

The cage makes them super loud in the cab

 

Yeah never noticed them until the cage. Now it’s headsets mandatory if we are in dirt otherwise it’s almost unbearable.

 

No cage here and I don’t hear my fox’s.
Occasionally at lower speeds I’ll hear the bumps hit the strike pad but that’s all.
I can’t wait for a cage and all the good it brings.

 

You hear everything with a cage lol. That uniball with .005 slop? Yeah, it’s loud.

 

oh yeah....when you got a total of 16 tubes its just a constant clicking....lol

 

That’s next for me! These free bleeds gotta go!

 

I’ve always thought if you made some delrin slugs and pushed them into the tube exits on every point on the cab cage that you could probably cut down on a large percentage of noise, and some dudes with more expensive builds have told me it’s a must to put “mounds” of sound deadener around the tubes anywhere they exit the cab

 

It is crazy how loud the rear tubes are as I just found out with my cage install. Fronts aren’t as noticeable since they don’t tie into the cage directly like the rears.

 

it will still just resonate in the steel anyways, but I’m sure I wouldn’t hurt.

 

yeah first time I drove my truck with the 4 link and bypasses tied into the cage I was like wtf is going on… like what’s broken…than realized oh…just need to put my intercom headsets on and ignore everything…lmao

 

how bad is it on street? I've not really been in a caged truck with bypasses on pavement