Long Travel BS Thread

Are you concerned about the cv binding when you are servicing the limit strap? Pop off the axle nut so it can pull away from the hub I think would fix that.

Serendipitously the way my front straps are set up they hold the arm at the perfect length to get the coilover out with one nut on the top of the clevis. But moving forward that’s how I would try to install them so that you’re not messing around with a jack trying to get the coilover to the perfect extended length of the shaft with your pinky toe on the jack handle while you’re cradling the coilover in your arms and trying to remove the top shock bolt with your big toe and captain toe on your other foot.

That strap is super short though - I know you don’t have a whole lot of room to play with, but I think a 2” longer strap mounted a bit further back looks like it could work even when stretched and then you wouldn’t need to mess with that like it is.

 

I’m strapped at 17. JD website states 17 as well I think. I think a lot of people got on the hype train and started pushing the performance narrative out a front and rear kit that’s nearly bolt on. When in reality, JDs kit seems more focused on fixing a lot of the innate problems with the platform. Such as the lower pivots, weak spots in the rear frame, alignment and geometry with larger tires. Which I think is the front/rear kits best achievement. And the travel of the front kit is still on par with rest of the market segment.

Is the performance of the JD kit (and others for that matter) overhyped? Yeah, to your point, I agree they are. It’s cool you’re looking to break down the performance wall of these trucks some more. Because at the end of the day, we’re still getting beat by silverados and rangers with the same money into them.

Wanna see what you come up with for your J-arm. More kits should be running a vertical uniball and there’s too few options for fabbed spindles right now. Once front travel is addressed, thats when the leaf sprung kits pulling 17-18” of travel will start falling behind.

 

“Up to 19” travel with a frame notch” and I am strapped at 16.5” with a King PR 14” bypass with no notch to the JD frame brace rubber bump pad. I’m not disappointed in my setup.

 

well they do sell a pressure gauge that goes in place of the bleeder...it maxes out at 1500 so i mean them saying that kinda checks out... but i think more research may be required before i buy my sensors.

 

Our LEED setup goes to 3,000psi….

 

top of axle tube to bottom of bump pad. 13 and almost a half. Plus 2” of bump. 15 and almost a half. And my straps aren’t connected.

So either I somehow effed up a bolt on kit. A change was made during production or my truck is somehow one of a kind.

 

I’m exactly at 15.5 bumped and strapped with my DMZ SUA.

 

Yup. No matter which way I slice it with this kit. 19 is not happening. Everyone seems to get all of these advertised numbers though. How, I really don’t know.

 

I should also add that I don’t have a frame notch.

and it’s really easy to get advertised numbers, all you have to do is lie!

 

Speaking of custom brake pedals and manual brakes

https://youtu.be/vVzrRu-GBkQ?t=1177

I've got 16.5 without a notch on my H70's. I don't think you can get much more than that without doing something super custom... or going negative.

 

This is where I sit with a frame notch. I could get a bit more but I didn’t want to stress the other components.

 

what axle are you rockin there?

 

Currie f9 full floater

 

dank, looks good

 

I remember seeing some guy on instagram that pulled 20" of travel out of his dirtking kit with 18" shocks. I think it's mgm.yota

 

Not all tape measures are created equally.

 

I want to check mine now. I haven’t been able to jack the truck up since moving into an apartment. It’s probably 16.5 and not 17. 17 just sounds cooler.

 

Tape measures just induce depression. In more areas than one.

 

got my DMZ kit strapped @ 11" with a Bilstein 7100 14" short body shocks tucked in the wheel well

If I went ahead and shortened the new driveshaft I have on there I could squeeze a few more inches out of her!

 

There’s a major difference between travel and clean travel.

On the torsion setups like dirtking, dmz etc. when the shackle is flopped down at full droop your spring rate is essentially zero until it starts to stand up again. So while it’s travel, it’s useless travel.

On the JD setup, when the shackle swings forward of vertical (which btw has never been viewed as proper) the spring rate also decreases to near nothing.

This causes the truck to absolutely blow through the first few inches of uptravel as if it were nothing.

While we’re all chasing numbers, it isn’t always about numbers.