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Long Travel BS Thread

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by amaes, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. Mar 4, 2024 at 5:30 AM
    BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT

    BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT bearly famous

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    Totally, I feel that. I’m actually thinking about trying out amber lenses over white emitters/the opposite for that medium range shit. I’d be curious how it would blend the light color/temperature
     
  2. Mar 4, 2024 at 7:14 AM
    Pittsy

    Pittsy I don't know what I'm doing.

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    BTF Fab +4.5 DMZ SUA 454 Motorsports
    IMG_1168.jpg

    Why couldn’t I have had the truck done sooner to go to the bad lines good times meet. This is so freaking cool.
     
  3. Mar 4, 2024 at 7:27 AM
    Wishbone Runner

    Wishbone Runner Because 4R

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    What is everyone using for custom hard brake lines? I need to make a few new ones to go from the frame block to the flex line up front, Vatozone specials, or is there a better source?
     
  4. Mar 4, 2024 at 7:40 AM
    Naveronski

    Naveronski Well-Known Member

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    I've had good luck with local hose/hydraulic shops. Brought them what I had, told them what I needed, and they made me a new one.
     
  5. Mar 4, 2024 at 8:36 AM
    tacotunner06

    tacotunner06 Well-Known Member

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    LS Swap with RSG Tranzilla, Custom hi clearance front bumper, Relentless: Slider's, bed rails, rear bumper, Prinsu with 40" BD s8. Dirt Designs 3.5 LT. Archive Garage rear towers/shackle flip/SUA. King Air bumps. King LT Coilovers in front. King 12x2.5 in rear. ARB rear air locker and twin compressor. SCS f5's with 33" Ridge Grapplers. 20" S8 mounted in bumper, squadron sport fog lights, squadron pro backup lights, LP6's bumper mounted.
    i just make them myself, got a rigid hand bender and a quality flare tool.
     
  6. Mar 4, 2024 at 8:58 AM
    Bandido

    Bandido Engine...er

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    for any run that gets stressed I use this: https://www.amazon.com/4LIFETIMELINES-4-76mm-Marine-Stainless-Tubing/dp/B07C8NK65K?th=1
    I used to use this: https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Line-Universal-Size-Copper-Nickel/dp/B07BMZ5FV2?th=1 but had a wear related failure, most of the parts store replacement parts are CuNi
     
  7. Mar 4, 2024 at 9:30 AM
    Wishbone Runner

    Wishbone Runner Because 4R

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    Thanks for the replies.
     
  8. Mar 4, 2024 at 10:11 AM
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Yes
    Why use any hard line at all ? prevailing wisdom these days seems to be to just run a soft line from the frame block all the way out to the caliper. Eliminates the soft-hard-soft visual mess and all of those fittings…
     
    Sterling_vH111 likes this.
  9. Mar 4, 2024 at 10:50 AM
    Wishbone Runner

    Wishbone Runner Because 4R

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    I have some "extended length" lines that will work with moving the FIF frame/spindle mounts a bit. Just saving a few bucks vs buying all new lines. I also don't love the idea of having the line that is flexing and moving directly mounted to the block, I could see the hose working itself loose, though i'm sure many run lines directly mounted to the frame block without issue. All factory lines are like that for a reason im sure.
     
  10. Mar 4, 2024 at 11:25 AM
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Yes

    Everyone is entitled to their own opinions but part of what you are saying is not factual. you actually eliminate the block on top of the frame and your soft line connects directly to the oe hard line with a 90 fitting and is secured to the top of the frame with an L bracket so there is zero potential for issues at that connection. by running a soft line the entire distance you reduce a connection point at the block and 2-3 more connections before you hit the caliper so you are in fact greatly reducing maintenance and potential failure points while also installing a kevlar line that is more durable.
     
  11. Mar 4, 2024 at 4:50 PM
    Caboose117

    Caboose117 foul mouthed Marine

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    smashed this, broke that, covered it up with tape and paint
    Anyone in San Diego who could potentially go pick up a truck cab for me?

    since I’m in KY :anonymous:
     
  12. Mar 4, 2024 at 5:05 PM
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Just flare your own if you’re doing a large number of them unless you can find coated steel with 10mm tube nuts already on them.

    Why not just get a braided line that goes from the frame block down to the caliper? Take a measurement and if it’s close to what I had on my truck for mock up only from G&J aircraft, I’ve got some I could ship out I decided not to use as I’m doing everything in stainless / -3AN and won’t need them.

    upload_2024-3-4_17-12-59.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2024
  13. Mar 4, 2024 at 6:17 PM
    tacotunner06

    tacotunner06 Well-Known Member

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    LS Swap with RSG Tranzilla, Custom hi clearance front bumper, Relentless: Slider's, bed rails, rear bumper, Prinsu with 40" BD s8. Dirt Designs 3.5 LT. Archive Garage rear towers/shackle flip/SUA. King Air bumps. King LT Coilovers in front. King 12x2.5 in rear. ARB rear air locker and twin compressor. SCS f5's with 33" Ridge Grapplers. 20" S8 mounted in bumper, squadron sport fog lights, squadron pro backup lights, LP6's bumper mounted.
    about a million different ways to get the brake lines ran....most lt guys seem to do it a different way than the next guy...
     
    Wishbone Runner likes this.
  14. Mar 5, 2024 at 5:46 AM
    Radarninja

    Radarninja Safety 3rd

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    Chromed out radiator cap
  15. Mar 5, 2024 at 8:28 AM
    906taco

    906taco Well-Known Member

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    Copper nickel is pretty awesome to work with. Though it is softer. I personally slit rubber hose and wrap any areas of hard line that might contact a wear area.
     
  16. Mar 5, 2024 at 10:15 AM
    Sterling_vH111

    Sterling_vH111 Go do something real instead.

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    This is what I did. Had HEL make some sweet ones.
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Mar 5, 2024 at 5:42 PM
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    I dropped a crescent wrench on a nicopp line on my rearend and saw that from how much it dented, it wouldn’t be ideal anywhere likely to be struck with a flying or falling rock or reasonably heavy tools / equipment. But out of the way it is easy to bend and flare - much easier than any stainless / standard steel lines.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2024
    Wishbone Runner likes this.
  18. Mar 5, 2024 at 6:05 PM
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    The reason I like getting rid of the female to female soft line on a somewhat stockish rig (especially one with uca bolt gussets) is to make more room to access engine bay components, especially the starter. If gr’s are anything like vz’s, then fishing the starter up through the space between the coil bucket and the frame is pretty tight and sometimes requires to remove the bolt holding the hardline junction if not push the mini hard line out of the way and it’s easier to just get rid of it altogether. I’ve done that on my wife’s 4runner when I rebuilt the front end as well.

    For my project truck I’m repositioning things to be out of the way and accessible to maintain. Mainly to get rid of the awkwardly placed junctions on the first gens where you have to get in the small space between the firewall / cab to get to some of the important lines like the frame junction going to the rear. Using stainless since I will go with single flare to accommodate AN. AN made sense once I started mixing sae and metric for front vs rear calipers and a proportioning valve it was a messy situation of lines with different fittings on different ends and not optimal for replacing parts / making spares if need be.

    The other part I didn’t like on the lines I had already bought for my first gen was that I couldn’t find anything other than bent (30/60/90*) fittings and they would be slightly twisted between the frame and the caliper despite the best efforts to clock them correctly. If you map it out it’s not bad, but if it bugs you a lot, it can be reason to go for another method.

    A sand rail guy I met in Kartek planted the seed of going to AN fittings due to them never getting twisted nearly the same as they can be straight fittings if desired. G & J would make a straight female metric and male bent fitting line for me so the lines wouldn’t have to be clocked correctly when ordering them, but by then I was already more interested in AN.

    Nicopp could be good for a small - out of the way line like next to the coil bucket.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2024
  19. Mar 6, 2024 at 12:21 AM
    tacotunner06

    tacotunner06 Well-Known Member

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    LS Swap with RSG Tranzilla, Custom hi clearance front bumper, Relentless: Slider's, bed rails, rear bumper, Prinsu with 40" BD s8. Dirt Designs 3.5 LT. Archive Garage rear towers/shackle flip/SUA. King Air bumps. King LT Coilovers in front. King 12x2.5 in rear. ARB rear air locker and twin compressor. SCS f5's with 33" Ridge Grapplers. 20" S8 mounted in bumper, squadron sport fog lights, squadron pro backup lights, LP6's bumper mounted.

    yeah i just use coated steel since it holds up alot better than copper nic. but yeah i only used hard line on my truck to tee out from my wilwood master than due to twisting action from the uca travel i ran it soft from fairly high on the firewall to behind the bypass than out and down the backside of the knuckle. always just gotta figure out what works for your situation. biggest pain with soft lines is having to really have an idea of routing and a good measurment of length before really being able to even play with it to determine if its even gonna work. i just got lucky that the way i originally routed my lines when i put my dirt designs kit on just so happened to be long enough when i added the bypasses and changed things up a bit they where able to still work for me without having to get new lines.
     
  20. Mar 6, 2024 at 2:52 AM
    906taco

    906taco Well-Known Member

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    They make different grades of the stuff too. Some is double the thickness of others. All I use I SUR&R
     

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