Long Travel BS Thread

Already had rcvs so I just ordered joint rebuilds to freshen them up and longer bars for the LT.

I considered the parts store slip joint axles, lifetime warranty etc. but heard stories about them snapping at the splines in the diff and that is a bitch to fix especially on the trail. If you will be medium hard on it maybe they are worth considering but I’m glad I kept RCVs with how many jack shafts I have broken.

if tundra axles are expensive or hard to source the rcvs will pay for themselves…eventually

or go all in with a shortened tundra 9” haha

 

Oh lord stopppp haha I’ve got to keep this thing semi chill. Hopefully I can find some OEM tundra axles. Looks like just the boot face gets cut off? That’s not a huge deal. The TC link you sent made it sound like the shaft had to be cut out. Maybe I’m not reading it right.

 

ahh no I didn’t read it lol

That’s instructions for a LT sequoia or tundra where they have to remove the outer for a longer shaft. Just leave the outer on and slide on the new inner boot since the shaft is the right length

 

Oh ok I see that now. Once I crack one open it’ll probably make more sense what would bind in there.

Did you come up with a rear sway bar solution? Guess I need to figure out front and rear coils, too. Wonder if stock location rear coils can handle 14” smoothies….

 

I’m trying to Figure out 3rd gen 4R suspension too. I want flexi coils without a ridiculous lift (2-2.5”) with small 2.0 shocks.
My goal is to crawl decently well but still be able to daily/road trip it 1000 miles if I want to.. no more LT for me on the 4Runner.

Seems like maybe dobinsons rear springs are good as well as the 7wrap Land Cruiser front coils do well. I’m reading conflicting stuff on some of the OME coils.

or go full kill with a longer link setup in the rear and with some hoops and 14” smoothies… or air shocks?

 

Hands down the best kit I’ve seen for the rear keeping the stock tank and not going through the cab for shocks is the FGP 3 link that utilizes coil springs and 12” / 14” shocks. A MT front setup and this kit will do better than a front LT setup and a stock 5 link in the rear.

https://optoffroad.com/products/96-02-4runner-rear-lt-three-link-kit-lt3?variant=43661255082242

I’ve got solo uppers and lowers and just a 10” ADS shock relocation out back waiting to go on with some oem king smoothies for the moment. Really interested to see what the outboard relocation will do with reducing body roll out back. I’ve gone from 27 year old stock springs to Moog to OME 906’s and have a pair of 891’s I’m sitting on until I see what I think about the 906’s. For what it is - my wife’s daily - the 906’s are fine. But they sag if I put all my tools in it and drive to work on my Tacoma.

@Dayman Karate



https://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/project/project669.html

Website sucks so I posted screen shots.

 

I just ordered that same kit last night lol after looking everywhere else it seemed like the best that’s out there. I got their taller shock relocate and a bunch of other goodies, too. Curious what coil length will be needed to keep up with 14” shocks though or am I overthinking that?

Thanks for the screenshots. Looks pretty easy. Thought I’d have to grind the cup like some of the LT 2nd gen tacos had to do. At least I thought I’ve seen that somewhere…

 

Exactly what I was thinking. The FGP 3link with some coils and longer shocks, with a very basic mt front. Small shocks slow speeds haha

 

You will probably need to strap it or use coil retainers to bolt springs in so they don’t drop out.

straight up and down my rear suspension will do 12” with some longer length kings in oem mounting points.

I have 861 springs and they get loose at full droop but you could get more compression if the shocks are mounted up higher and you tub the rear.

superlift 580 are a jeep spring I tried that gave me about an inch lower ride height since the 861s sit high. They are also about an inch? longer free length so better droop but they are single rate so worse body sway.

body sway wise, a sway bar on mine locked it down turning at high speeds. I was amazed when I drove it. You would have to get fancy to fit a sway bar with the osr shock relocate though.

Straight droop


Flex


My sway bar placement, osr rear tube interferes on compression.

 

Dang, was hoping that wasn’t the case. Gonna reach out to opt and see what they’re recommending. I got a 1” body lift ordered so maybe I can tuck things up a little higher back there. Sway bar sounds like a fun project lol. Maybe I can go stiff enough with the rear coils or bump stops to make the front do work…

what coils did you settle on up front? Are you still on 10” coilovers?

 

hadn't actually seen your TK1 after you recommended it to me. looks great, and you're getting really good articulation still. medium heat treat on the shaft?

 

Well i have a 3rd g 4r and will say this
There are no flexy low lift coils for them

It depends a ton on how much weight you carry, i have gone over all the ome coils
906 are nice but when you hardly carry stuff
891 is better then 890 imo but i carry some weight so went to 861 and are softer but taller, a bigger tire would fix that

 

Got mine on ebay, $50 each
Havent had issues at all, just remember they have to be oem and cut the inner lip

 

Very cool. So any old used 1st gen OEM tundra axles are fair game then? What boots did you go with? Any need to repack with grease or can you get out unscathed?

 

1.25" u4 bar, medium heat treat, 18" arms

that pic is misleading on flex since it is before the sway bar, wanted to show the max of the 861s and shocks in the oem location.

never posted pics with the bar because I installed recently. with the sway bar when loaded I lost about an inch each of droop and compression when flexed at the rear tire. unloaded maybe 1.5-2.

not apples to apples since I raised ride height but before sway bar I could raise a front tire ~33" before loosing contact with a tire and I could lift a rear tire ~37". after sway bar I'm at ~35 rear and ~33 front. it pushed the ifs to flex out a lot more even with the rear

 

I went for the early ones, 98-2000 i believe it is cause the others changed the casing
And for the boot 930 boot from kartek

 

Are those IBP rear shocks?

 

Not sure what the mounting differences are between the 3rd and 4th gen, but I have been very happy with the Metal Tech coils on my truck, dual rate with ~19" free length IIRC, run 12" and coils stay tight with no retainers.

 

I believe the 4the gens have a lot larger diameter coil than the 3rd gens. Don’t know if rear springs would be comparable between the two

 

nope just the oem replacement kings ordered in a different length. considered trying to put a raptor ibp back there but 3" would be a pain to fit.

I know 3rd gen t4r can use tj/xj/jk/jl? front springs in the rear if you pull the coil isolator. Just gotta figure out the right height. most are available on Amazon cheap and easy to return though so you can play around with it.