Long Travel BS Thread

Should be rad when it's done, 9" pumpkin up front? 934s so you can run a 35 spline shaft?

So the newer dana 60( 2005+) I run the fancier warn locking hubs on my crawler and I am NOT nice to it (knock on wood) haven't blown a hub apart yet and I've had it bound up pretty good where it walks the steering u joint cups out at the knuckle(I weld the caps in now) and that's a hefty 1550 joint lol.
I w a s hoping the hub guts would be the first things to give since they're the easiest to change.

Just food for thought don't sleep on the 60 stuff
(And yes im referring to my solid axle crawler) but the outer parts are the same.

Sweet build can't wait to see it

 

And a 2.5 coilover is fine it basically only holds the truck up anyway. 3.0 or bigger is the way to go on the bypasses for the most part above 3.0 is more just oil volume for heat dissipation, and unless your racing other than the super wicked bump zone on the real big shocks you can valve a 3.0 to ride great

 

So on the subject of shocks. I installed my 8" coilovers last night. The truck sits TALL. It's a 600x16" spring. I have nearly no down travel.

The shocks are all up to spec, 2" rod extensions etc.

Should I drop it to a 550/18"?

 

Congratulations!

 

Woah congrats man! Thats awesome.

 

Might be worth doing the d60 hubs then just cuz it would be rad to completely disconnect the front drive train and save wear/tear and fuel. I'd be running 6x5.5 though, but I think trailgear makes a hub set ready to go. The big thing is that the spidertrax builder bells are so easy, and I don't think that the d60 hub would fit it.

9" up front, I'll see what I can afford as far as 934 vs series 30. If anything just a series 30 outer for the extra articulation/strength, and a 934 inner. 35 spline for sure though. I've been looking at @designsbykirby 's front end on his f150 pretty heavily for inspiration. I like that it's removeable too, would sure be convenient.

I think the 2.5/3.5 package will do exactly what I need other than telling people that my truck runs 4.0s haha.

 

Congrats You two.!!!!

 

Have you driven it? The anti dive in these trucks keeps the front proud until it’s actually moved after you lower it down.

 

I've driven it like 50 feet...

 

post pics something is wrong, no way a 600x16 should have you topped out like that

 

Congrats! @WormSquirts

If it’s an 8” CO you should have plenty of threaded body to be able to spin the collar up and drop the preload on a 16” spring.
I’m on 18x500 and it sits a little tall for me. I want to drop mine down but I’m out of room on the adjustment collar.

 

When I get home I'll send some pictures

 

Will I have to pull the coilover in order to do that?

 

What brand coils?? This happened to me a while back with some king coils, marked 600
Went down to same lenght but 550

 

I'm pretty sure they're king coils. They're from accutune

 

Depends on how much preload is on the coil. Droop out the front end, get the wheels off the ground and see if you can turn the collar with a spanner or punch. Be careful turning it because you don’t want the collar to jump threads. If you can’t get it to budge, you’ll have to use a spring compressor to take tension off the collar. But you should totally have room to adjust the ride height unless your rod ends are crazy long.

 

how tf is a double cab sitting tall on a 500 spring !?

 

It’s not overtly tall, if I could I’d take it down probably .5-1” max. It’s honestly just looks reasons, feel like I got a bunch of fender gap. But ideally still need the bump travel. So double edge sword there. I’m also no extra weight other than sliders. With the aluminum bumper and removal of material from the front, It’s probably lighter than a stock front end. Here is current on 35s.

 

It seems just tall as fuck