Long Travel BS Thread

Looks like quality fab, but man that's a lot of work to keep the lowest hanging part of the truck. I used to get stuck on that cross member constantly, can't wait to have a flat belly that is tucked away higher

 

Dremel with a sanding or grinding bit for factory paint or wire wheel for rattle can and…

and pain and anger.

 

If you get that stuck in the desert you’ve slammed your whole frame

 

Ye. Im a desert dweller.

 

Welp. Week 3 of this garage wrenching bullshit and still no uniballs in cups. I’ve been on this forum for such a long time learning the how, but trying to do this is a joke with the tools I have. Guess I should have put money into tools instead of the truck. Oh well. Going to harbor freight tomorrow to try out the budget ball joint press. Will update once I get them in. Looking forward to putting the 934 back together. Love how easy the inner is to service. Outer is still tight so should be good to re-boot and move on.

 

Twins! I think was going on 3 weeks because they never sent me uniballs.

A little hydraulic press made the install a breeze

 

Top hat really doesn’t look like it’s mounting it too low. Comparable to my dirt king location from the picture at least. I think the aluminum billet makes it look lower than it really is.

That said not heard great things about that kit. Just commenting on the top hat

 

Straight up Mineral Spirits works best at breaking down and removing old CV Grease. An old trick that we use when prepping CV's for the Buggies , Class10 and Class 1 Cars. I'd use a solvent style brush and Mineral Spirits to clean out the old stuff from the Outers without separating the Shaft.

 

Been meaning to get some of that to take some paint off an AR rail I rattle canned. For the 934s, I just wiped everything down. It’s gonna get greased up again. Don’t mind a little residue as long as all the particulates are gone.

 

Acetone removes rattle can without an issue. Even factory paint but requires abrasive materials to speed up the process more.

 

JD stuff is mounted as high as it could possibly go

 

His kings are standard TC spec if I’m not mistaken - like everyone’s input just thought I’d mention what they look like.

 

I don’t deal with snapped bolts a lot, but I’ve snapped half the ones for the rear bumper and gas tank mount on this 4Runner and I’m sure they won’t be the only ones. Any better way or tool than your good ole extractor set? Not something I do often, but I have a lot to do now.

 

Welder. First burn a washer in. Then burn a nut to the washer. Quench with penetrant heavily.

 

I go left handed drill bits before extractors.

 

Nice. That should work pretty well.

 

100%. Kills many birds with one stone. I will never touch an extractor ever. Break one off and you are EFFED.

Welding heat shocks the bolt, then cold shocks and wicks in penetrant which almost always does the job. If it breaks off, just try again.

Some guys will melt a candle into it vs penetrating oil. But I like the smell of cooking penetrant so…..

 

Yes you're correct. Only thing that's different is the eyelet was swapped to a 1.5" instead of the TC 1.25".

 

1 inch of preload on 16x600s

 

Washer then nut works 101% of the time. Spent plenty of time trying to smash a hardened broken extractor out of a hole plenty of times. Never again lol