Long Travel BS Thread

I like the washer idea. I also tack weld a washer when trying to drill a hole on a surface at an unusual angle sometimes to center and hold the bit until it bites well enough.

 

Best thing it's when your trying to get a steel bolt out of aluminum (honda engines) you have that extra flat steel edge to weld against

 

GM a bunch of fuckin clowns

 

yeah you gotta cut that wing piece off on both sides

 

for something like a bumper bolt i do regular ol right handed drill bits n try to get the bolt to forward itself out. If not then double nuts or heat and channel lock on channel locks from the back. If you got the bolt to turn at all and the head of it is gone it should go out the other side much easier. No sense in trying to drag crusty threads through the bolt/captive nut still when you could just not

 

Mad.

I also am a little curious/upset, wondering if I could’ve fit long tubes. My guess is not, but I bought shorties anticipating nothing fitting at all. Equal length Long tubes would make it sound so so much better.

 

Snagged this set of King IBP 3.0 with finned resi’s and adjusters for 2k. Raptor is finally dialed.

 

The main clearance issues are the steering shaft and the front driveshaft.

Driveshaft is gunna be a problem for me, I might need to get some different headers that meet in the middle of the 4 and go straight down, or run the shorties to the front of the block and then loop down and back

 

Yeah jd mounts it high. Was more saying it isn’t abnormally low. Looks standard and as he pointed out it’s tc spec.

 

That’s why AWD TT’s and ultra 4 are mainly a reverse mid engine.

 

Unfortunately he hasn't added the exhaust yet in this video, but a similar setup to yours. Link should go to looking at the underside of the truck.

https://youtu.be/dciPCh_KDac?t=1794

 

yeah he had it sitting in hammertown at KOH and me and @WormSquirts were checking it out. it was still a ways from being finished.

 

Just found out the lower shock bolt it’s 405lb ft. How the fuck am I going to accurately torque that to spec. Any ideas????

 

huh....that doesn't sound right at all....

 

Are you talking the rod end?

 

no just the lower bolt through the shock into the lca...apparently thats what ford specs it at is 408.....what kind of bolt are they using....looking at gr8 bolts nothing should use that kind of torque till you get to 7/8...

 

No way that’s accurate. I would believe 105.

 

dude it’s nuts. The bolt is fucking huge.

There were huge ass bolts for the front leaf hangers. Had to cut one out. Ford in their brilliance puts the bolt in from the inside of the frame then puts the gas tank in. Deaver includes new bolts for this reason lmfao. Nothing stopping you from cutting the head of the bolt off, pulling it out, then putting in the new bolt and nut from the opposite direction.

I bought a 3/4 40” breaker bar and a 3/4 torque adapter, 3/4 to 1/2 reducer. Still gonna need almost 125 lbs of force
On the end of the bar to reach torque.

didn’t want to spend like 1500 on a 3/4” torque wrench.

 

That’s what they say. That’s from king’s instructions too:

https://kingshocks.com/pdf/183935

 

i wanna know what size the bolt is.....that seems like way to much torque especially through a cast aluminum arm.... i guess ford didn't want the lower shock bolt shearing while jumping the truck....i mean the frame will still bend but the bolt wont snap....lol