Long Travel BS Thread

Anyone know if there's someone out there selling something like this for 1.75"x.120" tube? I can sleeve some 1.5 into the 1.75, but i'd rather go with a direct fit if it exists.

 

So the pressurized crank case that pushed out the crank seal was from?

like, I just explained we fixed the issue?
What are you adding that I’m missing?
Genuine ask as I’ve been on the road for alot of hours and have jellow brain

this is an LT
Not an LS
It’s also running a aggressive cam with a 4” air inlet basically all the way to the heads since the intake is massive

so
The LT has a PCV system; that is what the can is tapped into
By instructions.
They also want a vacuum line right off the intake tube itself
Nobody liked that so we put it on the TB where there was existing area for it.
Doing THAT caused inconsistencies in vacuum at the can
So at idle it was also inconsistent.
Deleting the intake line and maintaining the two PCV lines solved the idle inconsistency…


So, elaborate better if there is an additional change you see gaining me a benefit

 

I’m not seeing how a vented can has any benefit with vacuum. Unless there is some serious trickery going on. But at that point it should be a sealed can.

Pulling vacuum on the crank case isn’t really an issue. However, tunes do need to be compensated for this. And it is ultimately a potential failure point.

With a true vented setup, you are not utilizing vacuum to pull gasses. Rather large oriface hoses. It is fool proof with zero chance of anything going wrong to impact how your vehicle runs.

99% of big power vehicles are purely vented setups. It’s not emission compliant, but it pretty much. Cannot fail.

 

Until something else fails and shotguns earl all over the engine bay at boost preasure...

 

Not really sure how a boosted engine could use anything other than a vented can?

 

So….
In response to what you said
The PCV lines are about the diameter of a silver dollar
As is the can line into it.
So
Already did that I guess?

 

Can pulls vacuum under low rpm conditions
And vents at high rpm
The vent itself has a flapper in it
Does that clarify?

 

Oh I did lol, but had a valve drop and whatever pressure/volume that was went thru the can and spattered an impressive amount of oil out the can filter.

 

It does clarify. But still sounds like a very high probability of failure that could very likely cause drivability issues.

Oh yeah. That’ll happen. Even a sealed setup you might just eject every seal on the motor depending on the situation.

 

Catch can was definitely the main issue with my motor lmao

 

It’s amazing how quickly oil can make it from point A to point B during catastrophic failure. Especially when boost is involved.

 

I actually dont even run one anymore on my motors, leave the tune a little safer, and take the(pretty small) hit on hp and efficiency....

I'll probably add one to the race car once it gets a proper built motor tho.

 

I’ve seen lots of guys utilize the exhaust to scavenge crank case pressure. Pretty interesting idea that I imagine could create an interesting chain of events upon a failure. Especially if said exhaust dumps in front of the rear tires.

 

My 2GR setup can do some funny things, under prolonged high rpm stints, the head doesn't drain quickly enough... Some guys have been making a dedicated crank case vent and adding an external drain from head to pan.

 

Finally weighed the truck loaded. Front is 2700# and rear is 2800# without me or passengers. 5500# with the GVWR@ 5450# May need to change my Steel skids for aluminum up front and the rear 155 LBS recovery bumper for a tube bumper to shed some weight.
The 2800# rear weight is, full tank of gas, a VP jug near rear bumper @ 5.5Gal, a Artic ice chest fully loaded( 78#) , a full size spare hanging over the bumper on a tire gate , a 3.5 ton floor jack over the axle and the battery in the back along with a Extreme steel hi-lift.

Trying to finalize some shock tuning but still having some issues. JD fab moved my rear ( 2.0x2.0) king bumps up as well as moving the shackle down to allow more bump travel loaded and to help level the truck. However I am seeing some porpoising. Added some more cranks to comp tubes, didnt matter, added 1 full turn of rebound didnt matter. Not sure what else I need to do to get the rear to settle down.

Other info:

Front CO has a 550x18" coils ( Very little preload, only drivers for taco lean) and almost thinking I am under sprung in the front?
Rear Bypasses more Comp valving?

NO2 Pressures. Bypasses and CO @ 170PSI, front Bumps @ 160PSI and rear Bumps @ 180PSI

May be time for 3.0x16 bypasses in the rear with the weight.

As always advice/suggestions always appreciated.

 

porpoising ? are you feeling frame flex while ie: driving on the highway ?

 

Probably going to get lynched. But the shackle angle is a big time issue with this kit.

 

going over substantial bumps on road and offroad it wants to act like a porpoise/dolphin? Front goes over, noses down while the rear wants to rise, over whoops its not as pronounced , can still feel the rear want to lift up

 

Shackle is near 45 degrees at rest

 

Shackle angle needs to be measured via Datum line. Aka an imaginary line that intersects both leaf spring eyes. Shackle angle is then measured off of said line. Not via actual shackle angle as the truck sits