Long Travel BS Thread

Looking for literally any other solution than that

 

Roofing paper and flex seal

 

YES. Now we are getting somewhere.

 

Ive welded the secondary hoop to the shock tower on the 3 I’ve done. It’s welded to the frame on the other end so why not

 

yeah especially if there’s any flexing or movement, makes getting the coilover out and back in later a lot easier.

 

I like to think this is some real race truck shit

 

Ospho. It's hazardous but just paint on and it'll convert rust to some other oxide i don't remember. Or cover it with evaporust and hope it cleans it up before evaporating then paint over the bare steel. Still best to cut it back to clean metal and weld it up even though it's a hassle. Those scaly parts are all gonna slowly wiggle into big cracks and you'll be chasing your tail if you don't cut it off at some point

 

Not even sure where to start with sheet metal. I could see finding a donor cab to cut sections out, but holy shit that seems like a nightmare. Are people fully welding sections like that or tacking and filling with sealer of some kind? Could see fully welding the rocker panels.

 

2nd pic looks like wheel well that will get cut out with a tub no?

for the rocker I would spray a fuck load of pb blaster surface shield all over it after brushing the loose shit off. I sprayed some rock rash on the side of my 4runner with that shit and it stayed there through normal power washes over a year till I hit it with a hot water pressure washer. It hardens up and sticks well. You can get hoses meant for going inside the frame and run it down there from the front if you tub.

Any por-15 type undercoating flakes and holds water in my opinion so I avoid it.

if you do need pieces from a donor cab assuming they arnt huge I have 3 fresh ones that just showed up at a junkyard right by me

 

body hammer, log with a sphere carved into it and or a lump, or a shot bag. Can do plenty with that if your standards arent super high. Maybe a cheap benchtop english wheel if you do want real smooth panels. Then just do it in small sections, take your time welding it and use a piece of copper or aluminum on the backside to keep heat and oxygen out. Seems daunting at first but if you do a lil 2x4 strip at a time like even once a week it'll go pretty easy

 

A little bit of that in the 2nd pic might get cut out, but I don’t think it’ll be much.

Unfortunately it’s the rear wheel well in the third pic that’s so bad. It’s almost to the carpet lol

Going to try making some small patches like @not_nick suggests first. Fingers crossed all the wires have enough slack to move out of harms way.

my standards are extremely low so I’m willing to do almost anything I just want to stop the rot and keep the water out of the cab.

 

One thing I have learned about working on this truck is that my passion is far ahead of my skill. I have welded alot on this truck and nothing has ever broken off or cracked with abuse. But damn my welds are inconsistent. Good machine, good prep, and making sure I have enough room to do what I need to do.

One pass will look instagram ready and the next looks like I turned the gas off and used my left hand.

On a positive note the bypasses have eliminated most of my body roll, bypasses fully open to get a baseline/coilovers valved and all bleed holes 100% open. Still chattery on washboards but tires are at street pressure.

Without body roll the rear is less planted, which with a supercharger and locker is sketchy/fun in the rain.

In short. I would rather do my own work and screw it up and learn something than paying someone else and not know whats going on under my feet.

because I can barely afford the parts alone at 0$ labor.

 

The only way to get washboard chatter to go away is cage your truck. It’s almost non existent in my truck now. But there is so much flex in our frames that washboards just start the chattering like no other.

 

I can see that. The amount of flex in the shock tower alone when I was trying to line up double shear and bolt was alarming

 

Worse than washboard is Razr Stubble, the acceleration stutter bumps them damn utv's leave behind. That will rattle all your junk to death.

 

My Nutts can confirm....

 

Im excited to cage my truck. TE is tempting meeee

 

Don't cut corners. Have JDFab do it. They get their cages really tight to the cab and the Tacoma does not have any room to spare, especially around your head. It would get old real fast banging your knees every time you get in and out. But I suppose you could always leave out that secondary A-Pillar tube.

 

I wonder what their labor cost is on installing a cage.

 

Contact – JD Fabrication My personal opinion is that they are one of the fairest with their pricing.