Long Travel BS Thread

Those are cool wheels!

Shoot, wish I had cycled mine when I had the front apart a couple months ago. JD fab setup my front so I'm curious what they got out of it. Honestly if I can tune and get the 11 or so inches working well with 4wd I'll be happy. I don't push my truck as hard as you all do though, and I'm not caged.

But yeah, be nice to have accurate numbers and conditions advertised, such as 2wd vs 4wd travel. Seems dumb to tell someone they can max out their truck an entry level LT kit only for them to cage, build up their truck down the line and have to jump kits because the numbers don't add up. Or maybe they just don't think anyone's gonna go back-halve and cage their rigs.

 

You know that's also something we haven't considered is the original travel numbers are on EMF ball joints and now a lot of us are on 1" uniballs. I wouldn't think the articulation of the joint would be much less if any with a uniball, but it's still a variable.

 

Edit: I also have the Upgraded Lower Uniballs with Misalignments

 

What size bearing spacers are needed for TC/king stuff?

1/2 inch bolt and 1.25 overall width.

This is it correct?

 

Honestly, it’s a bad ass kit. However I’m going to continue building my resume and build my own front. At that point the entire suspension and steering will be done in house. Even building my own 9/10 inch rear housing this winter.

 

hmmm to upgrade to 3.0x16 bypasses or not to?......
As it is at full articulation stuff I am rubbing the tubes on a 2.5.

However, new beadlocks are on the way @ -32mm offset, and it looks like there is enough room to simply turn the bypass 180 and move the tubes on the inside?

 

Have your shocks been over heating? That's basically the only reason to upgrade

 

yes, and the rear is weighed at 2800LBS loaded for des trips. last run when I stopped. the shocks were too hot to touch.

More oil is just for heat?

 

3.0 is going to increase dampening as a whole with less effort which in turn decreases heat. But oil volume also decreases.

Notch the frame and go 3.0.

 

@SoCaltaco65 another possibility is you need more valving at the weight you’re at. 15’s were not enough even for my truck which is nowhere near 2800 rear weight. Improper valving is going to cook any shock you go with.

 

This I know, and is why I am looking at a bigger shock, current rear valving-shim 1,2, 3 0.015 and 4,5,6 0.020 comp, comp tubes are 95% or so turned in.

we left the rebound alone.

 

At 95% turned in you need more valving. You do not have enough bleed. Bleed helps keep things cool.

 

ok so all 0.020 it is...

or shed some weight
Which I can do.
Rear replace a 150++ LBS recovery bumper
Front Replace Steel skids for aluminum , reduction of roughly 63LBS

 

More than likely a rate plated .020 stack would be a really big help for you. Whatever you gotta do to open the tubes more

 

No... Bleed also decreases damping, which is counter productive of increasing comp valving.

@SoCaltaco65 at 95% closed comp tubes and that valving going up to a 3.0 would be the ideal solution.

 

What rear kit are you running?

 

Jd fab h70hd packs

 

Highly untrue. Bleed decreases slow speed dampening. At high shaft speeds you cannot bypass enough fluid around the piston so the valving comes into play.

 

@SoCaltaco65 at 95% closed comp tubes and that valving going up to a 3.0 would be the ideal solution.[/QUOTE]

direction I am going

 

Old engineer in me thinks the same...[/QUOTE]
Undoubtedly nothing wrong with going to 3.0 as long as you’re cool doing a frame notch. I’m on -38’s with 1.25” spacers and still kiss my 2.5’s.