Long Travel BS Thread

It's getting voltage drop from either too small of a positive supply wire or an inadequate ground. If you're just charging one of those little backup batteries you use for the emergency electric brakes then you probably don't need a DC to DC charger but if you're charging something larger like a regular car battery I would recommend putting in an Anderson plug to pass greater current back to the charger

 

The trailer has 960AH of LIFEPO in the back of it. The power wire I’m using is significantly thicker than the 7 pin’s power wire

 

Yeah then I'm going to guess the tiny pin is probably your bottleneck. Does your DC to DC charger have Bluetooth diagnostics like some of the renogy and renogy clones do?

 

No, it’s a piece of crap lol.

 

As I move into the cab with my cage, it seems like there's no better time than now to do the front seats. I actually really like the TRD sport seats, but they're showing their age, and even with a refoam, won't be as stable as even an entry level 5point seat. Would love to save a little time getting my search going with some recommendations.

I'm 5'9", 200lbs with wide shoulders.
No need to recline since there will be a bar right behind them.
Not locked in on a suspension vs she'll seat. Would like something that is either known for wear resistance or easily re-covered. A worn through thigh bolster gets on my nerves.
Having just started looking, I'm thinking I'm looking in the $500-$700 per seat range with the name brands. Does that sound like a reasonable budget?

 

Boot or no boot with heim steering?

 

My PRP podium elites are insanely comfy.

 

Those do look super comfy. Any comments/complaints on the single opening for the shoulder straps? I've only ever run seats with individual passthroughs, which kept the straps off my slightly thick neck. I guess running tabs vs wrapping the straps around the bar would be an easy solution to ensure the straps stay at the proper width.

 

No complaints at all. I’m 5’7” 200lbs fit like a glove. Would absolutely buy again.

Also @colinb17 i went with tweed. 100% a solid choice. Very durable and zero sweating. I also feel like it grips your clothes for an even more “planted” feeling.

 

I have 3x master craft 3g seats that are brand new. The front two are heated with adjustable lumbar. I didn't realize I have a long torso and need the extra height seats, and I think I'm doing a bench in the back now... Didn't have a kid when I started the truck lol

I need to sell them and willing to give a good deal. Have harnesses as well for them. They are comfy, I've ridden in them before and that's why I got them.

I'm in Canada but can bring them to California when I come down for hammers. I've been using the rear seat to mock up, but the other two are still in the box.

 

Also, making some progress... 25.25" metal to metal! Will limit at my target of 24".

 

Thanks, nice suggestion with the tweed, it's hot all the time down here.

Thanks, ill check out the seats. Unfortunately shipping would likely kill a deal. I'm all of the way across the country in south carolina. Also makes the heated option a bit counterproductive.

 

If you're buying new, gunna have to ship em anyway, but makes sense with the heated option let me know, happy to work with you if it makes sense

 

I don't know if its black friday related or not, but lots of free shipping at the moment, including Cory's PRPs from poly performance.

Do yours have the adjustable lumbar, or have you sat in any that do? Thinking about my wife's comfort....

 

Yeah they do! They work decently they aren't the air style prp has that I've found to leak eventually, they have a hand knob. Works good. My back is pretty messed up which is why I splurged

 

How are y'all carrying CV and long tools?

Mine are currently in a 48" rifle case but it's much bigger than necessary and kinda starting to bend from the weight.

Looking at a Pelican 1705 as a replacement. https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/cases/long-case/air/1705/?sku=017050-0000-110

 

Might be a dumb question but is it necessary to change out the hardware (bolts, nuts, snap rings) and misalignment spacers when changing out the uniballs in the upper and lower control arms?

 

I’d change snap rings just because they’re cheap. I didn’t do misalignments or bolts unless I needed to. For any lock washers or nuts I’d get new ones as well where possibly applicable.

 

Fox Live Valve on a 2024 RaptorR..

 

I just want to see someone develop a shock that is simply 2 tubes. One full length rebound and one full length compression. No check valves, no noise. And servos controlling flow based on.

1. Vehicle speed
2. Shaft speed
3. Shaft position

In today’s world, this should be more than possible to accomplish. But maybe I’m wrong in that thinking. But it is already being done in the high performance car market.