Looking for a "how to" - Front diff main housing seal replacement

Aright. I'm going to get back to the exhaust. Must use what daylight there is. Luckily we're having a stretch of nice weather here in NE.
I'll check back.
Kinda sucks I won't be able to run it to see if anything changes with the hoses til the exhaust is done.

Oh, & I'll check the fluids....

 

Well, I also have a couple videos for your differential axle seal. The first one shows most of the steps, but the second showcases an awesome seal installation tool made by the Wit's End company. The Wit's End tool makes it super easy to drive the seal to the proper depth. When it comes time to replace the seal, watch Part 1 for the steps to get everything torn apart and put back together. But, for the seal insertion, watch the point in Part 2 where we showcase the use of the Wit's End tool. If you think you would want to have that tool for the job, be sure to order it in advance because Joey Romero, the owner of Wit's End, sells out of them pretty quickly. You might have to wait a while until he gets another batch machined and anodized.

Here's a link to the tool. If you don't have a seal driver handle, you'd want to order the handle as well. I love this tool. It's worth it's weight in gold in my opinion.
https://absolute-wits-end.com/toyota-4wd-ifs-output-shaft-seal-driver/

https://www.youtube.com/embed/mh1BK5--KrU

https://www.youtube.com/embed/Q-RO52NtP1A

 

I wonder if your leaky CV is the cause... gravity is a funky thing. It just might be spray that pooled at the top somehow (there is a little valley/whatever ya want to call it at the breather tube barb) and is now leaking down with that movement of the vehicle today. Reaching here...

 

yeah I wouldn't rule out the CV axle seal, those things are a bitch to get right. If you don't seat them 110% correctly they will start leaking and gear oil tends to spread out all over the place. I had to redo mine a few times, and 1 year later I just noticed it's seeping again But luckily not as bad as before.

 

A rotating shaft no idea how that gear oil is going to get flung around. A big mess .

Then with the rust preventive all over everything I would think poodles under the truck would be common.

 

I would maybe agree with the cv axle thing, however the one that's leaking is on the right & the leak seems more left sided. Plus the amount & placement of the oil under the truck just doesn't jive with it all being attributed to the one seal. The leak is right under the housing, where that drip is in the pic & it had a spread of about eight/ten inches under the truck. In my experience with leaking cv seals is whilst there is spray, the drips puddle right under the seal areas.

 

Thank you. I did use your vid the 1st time I did them. I still can't manage to get the right one. I ended up getting the left by using the axle to drive it in. Didn't get so lucky with the other. This last time I was very careful, tap, tap, tap, tap, caliper check, Wash, rinse repeat.... Maybe I do need to invest in a handy tool....

 

No. Not so common. That's why this one caught my eye. The only poodle I had been having is the small one from the right cv seal.

 

any progress today ??

I took a piece of 3/4" black pipe and welded on a chisel works great for tapping those cv axles in.

I would need to check the length 24"to 30" as a guess.

also splitting the bell housing from the engine.

 

The furthest I got so far is cleaning off areas best I can. I don't have access to a power washer (maybe that's obvious ).
Yesterday was appts & took advantage of using a friend's van & ran errands.
I have been hung up with the exhaust system. Received a dented muffler & now am confused by the hanger on the rear cat.
Also concerned about a hole in my frame. It's at "the" spot in front of the leaf spring & now would be the time to get it since the exhaust is out. I have a welder. Only fired it up once. I'm a little intimidated by it & I haven't had time to practice.

 

Perhaps @Kwikvette can offer suggestions/tips to make it less intimidating.

 

Pictures?

For a novice welder, and probably not something you'd want to hear but I'd suggest acquiring the most comfortable welding position you can.

In this case, it might be taking off the bed.

I wouldn't recommend a novice to weld 3G, much less 4G (overhead).

 

What is the issue with the hanger?

 

Just started a thread. Thank you. Yes. Much different than mine. I am suspecting maybe something happened when they did the frame & they welded on arms.

 

I’m embarrassed it got this far.

 

Plenty of room.

Welding up front like that is called 3G.

You can either buy, or cut yourself, flat plate that you will weld over that.

You'd just need to hit that area (and surrounding) with a wire wheel and see what's metal and what's rust.

Knock out the brittle stuff.

Weld plate over it (extending beyond the rusted area) then paint and coat to your desire.

 

So that would be this part, 17562? If so, do I need the 17572B?

 

What should I set the welder at? What thickness plate?

 

If I wasn't in the middle of a fresh OS install on a PC, I'd look up the thickness of Safe T caps (if you cut out your own plating.

Otherwise you could just buy a Safe T cap and weld it on.

As for settings?...man that's tough because every welder (as in the individual) has their own settings for the same thickness steel.

For me, if I ran 1/8" steel plate I'd probably run 230 IPM and 18.5V give or take, doing MIG with 75/25 gas and .035 wire.

 

Over the years I have supported exhaust with Universal Hangers and clamps what ever does the job.

If gas was cheaper I would come Help!!

Setting up your machine is going to be trial and error. Please Show or tell us what your working with.

Sheet metal 1/8" or 3/16"" what ever you can find. Scrap Washers or Driers make great patch material.

Good luck!!