Looking for input on the engine in my 98 (3.4)

When the engine is warm, and you let it sit for 20-30 mins and restart, do you smell fuel? This vs letting only sit for only 5-10 mins and not smelling fuel.

If so, you may just have a leaky injector.

Like others have said, seems you need to run a few tests before jumping into replacing the engine. Pending codes, fuel pressure leak down, and compression check would be good starting points.

 

No. It always starts up with no issue. This miss for a few seconds just started. When I get the rpm’s up is misses a little too. I just replaced the coil packs and plug wires and it has seemed to remedy the problem. At least for the few times today and getting the rpm’s up it felt great.

I don’t think the coolant temp sensor is bad but it could be on the list is replace because it’s old. Good idea though and I appreciate all the input.

 

I do not smell fuel at all when it idles for that long. Just that slight smell on cold start and then it goes away.

I am probably jumping to conclusions most likely and you are correct. Compression and leak down test should be done before I can say yep - piston rings or something like that.

for now after replacing my coil packs and wires it’s having no issues at all. Hoping that’s all it was.

 

Lets hope so!!

 

Sorry, my post wasn't clear. I didn't mean while idling, I meant if you shut the engine off for those periods of time and then start it.

If it's only off for 10 minutes or so, not enough fuel leaks past the injector to cause rich on start. Let it sit for 30 minutes and then you'll probably smell fuel if you have a leaky injector.

 

So I found out what my issue is. Not good. My gut feeling was right I think.

 

Well congrats....now your in too deep.....
...so I guess you get a new(ish) engine.


Place an add here....or FB market place.....might luck out and find a crated one...

There was a new 2rz crated short block on FB in my area 6 months ago.....

3rz's are the most plentiful, but the 5vz's are a close second....

3rz are head gasket eaters....and the 5vz's are crack heads.....

I had no ideal how bad things can be.....this video shocked the shit out of me....

check out 13:25......

(31) Engine Head Gasket / Cracked Head Repair (Toyota 3.4L V6 5VZ-FE ) - Part 4 - YouTube

 

I was watching that the other day. Not any good! In 2016 I changed my spark plugs for the first time and noticed there was a heli coil in one of the holes. Look what I found lol I put new plugs in and the plug electrode broke off and I cleaned it out. Ran it until not long ago (new plugs) and going up a hill and number 3 spark plug blew out and also lost a bunch of the plug somewhere. Probably in the combustion chamber. I am thinking the debri from that probably did it in. It does feel like it's running on 5 cylinders at the moment but doesn't run too bad surprisingly.

Not sure what I want to do. Cut my losses and get something else? It's kind of nice not having any payment of course but I am looking at 4k to 6k for a good transplant. Could find a used lower mileage engine but that's a gamble. I have no interest in the JDM nightmare BS.

Now - what to do... Wanted add is going up now as that' s a good idea. See what I can find!

 

That does not look good at all

 

what's amazing is how well it still runs. Minus the miss it has developed which I am assuming is from the plug and spark getting wet from the oil. It's also kind of hard to tell what's going on in there from the oil. I think I can see the top of a piston ring. Not sure really.

 

You know back in the day, I drove an engine for almost 2 years like that..

I used the barr's 3 or 4 times until the milkshake action showed up...


However that destroyed the radiator, I did have the foresight to by-pass the heater core.....

Bought me some time till I lined up a plan.

 

Not ALL JDM swaps are a nightmare! I've put over 7k miles on a JDM 3.4 with 220psi of compression and it hasn't burned a single drop of oil or given me any issues. All for $2,600 out the door

But it's your truck and $6,000 so have at it!

 

I am glad it worked out for you. I am aware that not all of them are bad. There are a ton of scams going on with those things and I would go that route if I had a reputable supplier that had internal shots or compression numbers and maybe come with a warranty.

What is $6000? got me a little confused there.

 

I think this is the $6,000 he's referring to.

 

Yes. That be it!

 

Myself I'd just find a reman short block....with a warranty.

And then two reman heads....again the warranty..

that way I'd control every single piece that goes back on there.

I know it adds up.....but live a little....


buy right.....buy once.....

 

What about buying any old used engine and having that rebuilt, then just swapping it out?

Cuts down on the labor of tearing yours apart and financially you still probably come out ahead or even with most other solutions

 

I am looking into this. Sunwest is on the radar. I see good and bad but that's just about all of them. The yotashop one is probably the best but dang - about $2000 better? hmm. Reviews have been mixed and I am really skeptical about getting a remanned that is so far away. If something does happen and warranty is involved a lot of that removal cost is on me.

I want to keep the pickup. There is really nothing that I can think of to replace it so I have decided to replace the engine but that route has some hurdles.

 

I have thought about this as well. In my area one guy is selling a 3.4 with 220K and and auto transmission. Will not separate for $1800. Everybody is asking crazy prices for everything in my area. I live in Rapid City, SD and it's getting flooded with transplants and driving all things through the roof. To me a 220K engine with unknown issues is about $300.

I did find one that has 157K and compression is 190-200 across all cylinders (in that range) but it's 8 hours away. I can get it shipped to my door for $1400 or go pick it up for $900 cash. Not bad but again - travel, hotel stay, food yada yada.

Local rebuild place told me that for right under $4000 I can pull my engine and bring it to him and he'll replace the passenger side head (spark plug blew out) and rebuild with a warranty. Probably the safest bet I have so far.

Looking for a reliable remanned engine supplier is proving to be somewhat of an issue. So many different opinions. Wish I was closer to one of those as it would be easiest to go that route.

Thanks for all the input from everyone on here. I appreciate it and gives me a place to unload all this stuff I've been coming across.

 

Good luck with whatever route you go.

And be sure to update the thread to help others that may run into this issue down the road navigate it.