Low Gear / Range without 4wheel drive

No problem at all. I agree most people need lots of practice backing trailers. I just like the feel of low range power when crawling backwards. Although this idea seems like too much work for the advantage, I can just use 4 low if needed, its not so bad as long as i dont lock my front ARB by accident and snap a CV.

 

Putting on 2 inch bigger, heavier tires without regearing and pulling a 5k lbs trailer...that's a bit more strain on your drivetrain.

I would either regear it or put the stock size tires back on.

 

Seems like an opportunity for toyota to make a real "tow" package with heavy duty clutch, upgraded rear axles, and allow for transfer case use without locking the hubs. Whats the multiplier on the rear with 4lo?

 

This is one of the main things I miss about not having manual hubs. There are definitely situations where 2lo is helpful.

 

I plan to regear with 4.88's shortly. I agree I'll need the torque. In my opinion if you add anything bigger than a stock tire with this truck and plan to have any real function with hauling and loading the regear is almost a requirement. I think 2000 rpm in 6th is almost 100 MPH, with a high revving 6 cylinder that doesnt make a lot of sense. Derailed my own post though......

 

I blew the slip joint on my '91 YJ while in 4LOW.
But that isn't really the reason why there is no 2LOW available, that is just your GUESS at why.

In particular, this transfer case uses a single push-pull rod sticking out the end to control it through the FULL range of positions.

All the way in one direction = 2HIGH.
Next step = 4HIGH.
All the way in other direction = 4LOW.

Now if they wanted to, they could stick a neutral in between the 2 and 4 HIGH, but consider this;
If you wanted a 2LOW position, how would you do it? Would you stick it between 4 HIGH AND LOW? If that is where you would put it, then how do you propose configuring the gears so that they go into 4H and then OUT of 4H at the next further position? Similar question would apply to every imaginable position.

In other words, you CAN'T put a 2-low position into the transfer case without switching to a DUAL shift rod configuration. That means adding a second actuator, which adds to the cost.

And frankly, it shouldn't be necessary. Rather than adding a 2LOW position, what would be REALLLLLLY nice, would be to add a couple of gears to the transmission -- 0, and R0, at something like 8:1 each.


OP: Yes, you certainly can implement a wiring modification to trick the 4wd ECU into thinking that the ADD is engaged when it is disengaged (essentially 2LOW), and it shouldn't be ANY different than how it works for

$73 2005-2015 Toyota Tacoma With 4L Right Petrol intake air snorkel kit high performance system compatible kit Replacement black Rotational Molding (2005-2015)

2005-2015 models. Contrary to other people's warnings, CANBUS has nothing to do with it, because the modification alters the signals between the ADD and the 4WD ECU. Even if they did add some kind of canbus connection to the 4WD ECU, which I honestly doubt, then this wouldn't impact it at all.

 

And that's your opinion...

Meanwhile, I have an original CJ2A with a twin stick Tcase. Even though it has two separate levers (One for engaging front wheels, and one for range) there is an interlock pin that will not allow low range without the front axle engaged. For original Jeeps and anything else that used the D18 twin stick, it absolutely was for the reason I am saying.

I'm nearly certain that the Tacoma has a front axle disconnect, which is how the mod works right? Why did Toyota decide not to just do the same thing the mod does and leave it disconnected in order to provide 2LOW? It has nothing to do with the gates of a single stick shifter like on a CJ5 or TJ because its an electronic rotary knob. They have chosen to engage in the 2Hi->4Hi-->4LOW sequence. They could easily have the knob be 2LOW - PUSH - 2HI - 4HI - PUSH - 4LOW. You would rotate the opposite direction to engage 2LOW.

For a mechanical limitation or otherwise, they have chosen to always engage the front axle. It most certainly could be to try an limit the torque feeding to the rear axle which increased ~2.5 times when in low (don't exactly know the Taco ratio)

Regardless of the reason. If you understand the system and its limitations, you would be OK to modify. Its the ham fisted morons that just want to keep gassing when they should be letting off that will get in trouble.

 

And this has what to do with Tacoma?

Because they're trying to make it SIMPLE, not like a space shuttle control panel.

I'm not talking about the knob. I'm talking about the TRANSMISSION.

 

So where is the best source to get all the electrical and signal information I'd need for the 3rd gen to actually try and do a 2-low mod on the truck? I saw the 2nd gen wiring diagram, I'm guessing that could have changed.

From reading the 2-lo thread, it seems someone may have made a plug and play solution for this. Does anyone know anything about that?

This seems like something I'll eventually get bored enough to try and work out.

 

Just get the 3rd gen FSM and you can compare wiring.

 

Do you have a good source for 3rd gen FSM? I just googled it and nothing definitive came up? Can i get directly from Toyota?

 

You can buy the paper version from Toyota, not sure if they have the PDFs or not. Usually just wait a bit and someone usually posts one online

 

They're expensive though. Another option is to buy a few day pass to techstream and you can get it through there too iirc

 

Here:

Sign up for a 1 day subscription and download the FSM parts you need

https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInf...urce_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F